Threading none threaded steer tubes?

brocklanders023

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Sorry if this is a stupid question ( :oops: ) but can you get a none threaded steer tube cut easily? Reason being is that I've been offered a lovely set of RC35's for my Orange build with a 1" none threaded steerer but I need threaded?? :roll:

Are there other ways round it? Any advice would be a great help as BITD I'd have just bought the right set up and got the LBS to sort it but it's not so easy now.
 
Option 1: tip local frame builder will have the tool for that but bring choccy Hobnobs as it's an @rse to do.

Option 2: get an Aheadset and stem?
 
On Pace forks you can swap out the steerer tube for the one you want.

Try the steerer swap thread (sticky thread near the top on Retro MTB chat) or get in touch with justbackdated on this forum
 
A non threaded steerer tube, and you want it threaded, well some frame builders will do it, so I hear, but there is also advice not to do it, as cutting a thread in a tube designed for the aheadset system, is removing metal which is strength. But to be honest, was not that the original idea with the aheadset system, that a fork can quickly be fitted without the need for threading.

Does anyone know if the steerer tube on a threaded set up is thicker than a non threaded set up.
 
Kestonian":1cloom73 said:
On Pace forks you can swap out the steerer tube for the one you want.

Try the steerer swap thread (sticky thread near the top on Retro MTB chat) or get in touch with justbackdated on this forum

What he said. ;)
 
I'd always believed that in many cases the threaded steerers use thicker metal to compensate for the threads being cut and in some cases ahead tubes use butted tubing to reduce weight so would make cutting a bad idea. That said, I can't believe that Pace would have used anything other than plain gauge in their steerers at that time.

Also (and I know this may be patronising) make sure it's not an alloy ahead tube as that would be a no-no!
 
If the stem quill will fit then its bound to be the same size tubing.....

Never heard of this being a problem before
 
It is perfectly acceptable.
I have just converted 2 sets of Ahead forks to threaded through LBS tools.
It can only be done with steel and Titanium as the wall thickness is the same. I have yet to see butted headtubes on a pair of forks, so no problems there. Wall thickness is uaually plain guage all the way up the steerer.
You cannot do to Aluminium under any circumstances for obvious size and strength issues.
If they are suspension forks, then my understanding and experience is to simply swap for the one you want. Providing the steerer tube is a seperate component. Many forks involve swapping the whole crown section as well.
 
As above fior the tech. tip.

The RC35 came out the same year as Aheadsets appeared on the market so there would be a valid argument to go with an ahead spec on the bike and avoid the hassle.
 
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