To powder coat or wet paint a YETI ARC?

Looking for some informed and experienced info here.

My 1995/6 Yeti ARC winter project build kit is now complete so looking to get frame repainted. :xmas-cool:

Can it be redone in powder or will there be an adverse effect on the tubing from the heat process involved? Who knows?

Any recommendations for a retro-friendly expert PC company, here in GB, to take it on if it can or even should be done? I do not want to ship abroad.

Or should I just send to Argos Racing and wet paint it, first as last? They did an epic job on Retro Spud’s ARC and Ilve used them before so I know it’ll be perfect for RAL-colour match and laydown. Wet isn’t as durable as PC but it’s not like it’ll be doing a full NORBA season.

+ / - ?

TIA

My 2 pennies. Always wet paint.
PC is thicker and hides details at best, at worst the surface is dimpled. Adds weight too

Powdercoat - try Powder Shack. He's a rider. Very busy though.

https://www.facebook.com/thepowdershackcoating

Re:

Help me out. Are these frames bonded carbon..etc...

If not of the glued together type, powder coating doesn't furnace blast by any means. More 200+ degrees. Just enough to cure.

Weight...not necessarily heavier either. I had some rockstar forks done in black years ago and, they came back the same, bang on 920g. Depends I suppose on overall application.

GIVEN THE CHOICE! powder coat. Tough stuff.

Powder coating is the way.

marc two tone":u4o7ovsf said:

Help me out. Are these frames bonded carbon..etc...
If not of the glued together type, powder coating doesn't furnace blast by any means. More 200+ degrees. Just enough to cure.
Weight...not necessarily heavier either. I had some rockstar forks done in black years ago and, they came back the same, bang on 920g. Depends I suppose on overall application.
GIVEN THE CHOICE! powder coat. Tough stuff.

Click to expand...

No, the Yeti ARC is a full aluminum TIG welded frame.

Thanks all for replies - especially the recommendation, I shall enquire there.

Couple other things Mark @ Argos mentioned was the need to properly degrease and blast. Early ARCs were blasted (bead, I think) and clear powdered to leave a gray finish. I’m intending this finish but will go gray if not able to get a decent finish.


Any and all more advice on powder prep/finishing is also appreciated. Thanks RB fam

Powdershack do a chemical dip & gentle bead blast. They have clear powdered over vinyl decals for me in the past - but that does depend on the media used with regard to heat resistance - check the 2011 P7 in my signature. He's done some great work with stencil graphics too. I know he's also clear powdered raw frames from following his facebook page.

rwm1962":pyb19wct said:

Powdershack do a chemical dip & gentle bead blast. They have clear powdered over vinyl decals for me in the past - but that does depend on the media used with regard to heat resistance - check the 2011 P7 in my signature. He's done some great work with stencil graphics too. I know he's also clear powdered raw frames from following his facebook page.

Click to expand...

Thanks again, really really helpful of you. I looked at Matt’s Fb page and sent a message, then spoke to him in detail for about 29mins discussing it all. He definitely knows his stuff and will do exactly what I need I’m really looking forward to him getting it done in the New Year! (He’s full booked till then!)
Thanks again! Regan

Re:

If you are going to clear coat over the decals make shure that their dye will be able to withstand the temperatures in the oven, whichever method you use.

Re: Re:

shedobits":36ltnscw said:

If you are going to clear coat over the decals make shure that their dye will be able to withstand the temperatures in the oven, whichever method you use.

Click to expand...

Thanks for that, he already asked about decals but I won’t be lacquering over. I’ll fit those myself, as per OG frames they’ll set on top. I think I’ve got OG decals here somewhere too.