Forgiving Frames

Gaddmeister

Retrobike Rider
Need a little help. I have a 95 Reynolds 653 frame that I fund comfortable. My daily rig is a 2005 Stumpy M4 which I am finding is giving me a lot of pain at the base of the spine after a long ride. Both have the same saddle so am putting it down to the stiffness of the rear triangle and the aluminium material. Question is should I look at a full sus or are there forgiving frames/materials to consider that could offer relief on a long ride?
 
As far as aluminium goes, the M4 Specialized frames are pretty comfortable, then again it also depends on the tire pressure and saddle. I had a 1998 Rockhopper with "nitanium" steel frame and a 2004 aluminium Rockhopper, i liked the steel version better :)

Steel is more comfortable. I only recently started to notice this, i`ve ridden steel for most of my life so this wasn`t an issue until i bought my first aluminium bikes. A 90s Cannondale is noticeably less comfortable than a steel frame from the same era. Some improved on frame design, but a plush steel frame is probably still better than a plush aluminium frame.

Never tried full suspension(or carbon) so far, i`m guessing that for people predisposed to back pain it should be better at absorbing the bumps in the road? How about a full suspension steel rig? That should work :p
 
Aluminium frames are generally much stiffer and less forgiving than steel. Depends on the construction of course. Besides the saddle, seating position, tires and even seat post can make the difference between harsh and comfortable. But even the most comfortable steel hardtail will be harsher than a full susser. Maybe have a look at "softails" like the Ritchey Plexus if you don´t need a lot of travel and just want to take the edge of bumps.
 
I think it depends what terrain your riding trails tracks or road the larger the tyre the less difference there will be between steel and aluminium if it's mainly road with skinny tyres then I would go for steel ! Next question modern or retro ? Found the old orange clockworks early 90's comfy specially with the skinny forks
 
Re:

There is loads of variation from one frame to another. Steel is almost always more forgiving, but even among steel frames there's loads of variation, and different frame designs and materials suit different riders. Try some stuff! As a rule, I can't get on with aluminium frames.
 
How about a suspension seat post? Some of them are quite neat looking.Most tandem riders use them in the back as the stoker gets a lot of jolting .Something to do with the way tandems work.
Regards
Peter
 
Re:

The M4 was designed to be a punchy race bike. I had Kleins of the same generation and boy are they stiff at the back; Cannondales the same. It’s a tangible stiffness - instant acceleration and absolute precision tracking down something rooty and flinty. By contrast, steel 853 Cotics, double-tube rear Bontragers, etc all nice and compliant in the rear end.

But there can be more than one reason for back pain. Yes, shocks from a stiff end, but also reach and position. Being overstretched is a BAD THING. Running really long gear and pushing too hard can mess up your back something rotten.

Mitigation:

Measuring reach and position and matching your M4 to the position on your steel bike. If you do not have an in-line post on the M4 do try pushing the saddle forward on the rails so that you are more forward over the BB.

Bigger tyres running at a lower pressure - but watch over-large tyres on narrow rims.

titanium seat post of narrow section running into a seattube shim.

All worth thinking of. But the biggest pain I had in my back was on a steel Marin, light speed down a hill and then onto baked washboard ruts caused by cattle marching through a narrow section. Instant ouch as the bike bucked four or five times really viciously. Yes, modern full sus can be good for a sore body.
 
Re: Re:

2manyoranges":iupgcujn said:
The M4 was designed to be a punchy race bike. I had Kleins of the same generation and boy are they stiff at the back; Cannondales the same. It’s a tangible stiffness - instant acceleration and absolute precision tracking down something rooty and flinty. By contrast, steel 853 Cotics, double-tube rear Bontragers, etc all nice and compliant in the rear end.

But there can be more than one reason for back pain. Yes, shocks from a stiff end, but also reach and position. Being overstretched is a BAD THING. Running really long gear and pushing too hard can mess up your back something rotten.

Mitigation:

Measuring reach and position and matching your M4 to the position on your steel bike. If you do not have an in-line post on the M4 do try pushing the saddle forward on the rails so that you are more forward over the BB.

Bigger tyres running at a lower pressure - but watch over-large tyres on narrow rims.

titanium seat post of narrow section running into a seattube shim.

All worth thinking of. But the biggest pain I had in my back was on a steel Marin, light speed down a hill and then onto baked washboard ruts caused by cattle marching through a narrow section. Instant ouch as the bike bucked four or five times really viciously. Yes, modern full sus can be good for a sore body.
Thank you. Lots of points to consider. It is a longer top tube so will look at the stretch as you suggested as I do find it a bit of a stretch. I also have a carbon post on it. Would titanium be better?
 
Re:

Hmmm that’s interesting re carbon versus titanium. It very much depends on the layup and profile of the carbon post. Some are very oval inside and that makes for a very stiff post, despite the inherent flex in carbon. Most people find ti the most comfortable seatpost material.
 
Ti or lightweight steel for the post. Same saddle means nothing regarding back pain. As stated above, make sure the position is the same, sounds like it isn't, and it's enough different that you feel stretched on the bike that hurts.

Do you actually have a properly fitted position? Or do you just sling a load of bits together and play until it's passably comfy?

Also, how much air do you put in the tyres? The days of 60psi for fast courses and 40 for rocky ones (and 1.8" "mud" tyres) is (thankfully) long dead........
 
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