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 Post subject: Question: USE and PACE
PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2018 9:51 am 
Old School Grand Master
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As a wee lad, I was under the impression that using a shimmed USE post in a PACE frame was not advised (whether it was PACE themselves or general consensus I cannot recall).

What is the general opinion now?


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2018 9:55 am 
retrobike rider
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Pace, they always recommend quality posts like syncros or similar level.
Mainly for the accuracy of the diameter and long ones for a large contact point. (Guess the frames are not strong enough ;-()

But the reason against USE was the shim.

That is written in the manuals with them.


Now.
Use a long shim?


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2018 9:57 am 
Old School Grand Master
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Yeh - was thinking how a nice long shim would negate any issues with leverage and pressure caused by a short shim.


Last edited by jez-4-bikes-max on Tue Aug 21, 2018 10:24 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2018 10:21 am 
King of the DuckBoard
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Klein didn't like the USE post either.


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2018 10:39 am 
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
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If you had a shim made to the exact diameter (29.4 I think for RC200??), and made it as long as the amount of post in the frame then I don’t see an issue.

The USE shims were quite short in length.

And the Pace frames can be a bit fragile .


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2018 12:15 pm 
retrobike rider
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I think the problem is more the post moving around and creaking with that stupid Pace seat clamp system.

The seat tube cracking is almost always at the BB end, where Pace used a plain gauge tube without any butting.
The 32mm OD, 1.3mm wall tubing which they used was way too thin down there.
Normal practice would be a 2 - 2.5mm wall at the BB.

All the best,


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2018 12:23 pm 
Gold Trader / PoTM Winner / RB Rider
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danson67 wrote:
I think the problem is more the post moving around and creaking with that stupid Pace seat clamp system.

The seat tube cracking is almost always at the BB end, where Pace used a plain gauge tube without any butting.
The 32mm OD, 1.3mm wall tubing which they used was way too thin down there.
Normal practice would be a 2 - 2.5mm wall at the BB.

All the best,



Agree with Dan, the mofo's creak like hell hence why I junked my shimmed USE on my F2 and went with the correct size post, but as others have pointed out a longer shim would have done the same thing so long as the combined size of both was accurate

BTW is that recently acquired Purple pace getting a complete make over ?


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2018 12:29 pm 
retrobike rider
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Purple Pace? Me or Jez?

Not me...Only a cracked head tube silver RC300 in my shed.
I have someone else's red RC200 F7 in for a new head tube and seat tube, hopefully followed by a re-anodise, though....

All the best,


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2018 12:33 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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The 3d violet PACE in question isn't really getting a dramatic make over - a few NOS substituted parts, period PACE wheelset and maybe swapping to some RC30s and some different cranks.

The USE post was destined to go on one of the other PACE F2s. Not liking the idea of a shim if its too short.


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2018 12:55 pm 
Old School Hero
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Another thing to bear in mind is that the thin USE shims are alloy, the thicker USE shims are plastic. Generally speaking I would think plastic would have more chance of compressing than alloy, also plastic would also quieten things down a bit.

I had same recent issue with whether to shim a USE post into my Cindercone due to the elongated seat tube above the junction, decided against it in the end. Must admit I've been after an alloy retro frame to build into as my current fleet is entirely steel/Ti, however I do worry about the strength of early 90s alloy frames :(


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