Headset for 1992 Cannondale M500

[Miles]

Hi,

I'm putting together a 92 Cannondale M500 which has a steel fork so is 1" I believe. Can anyone confirm that and also what would a suitable headset be? I'm getting confused re. Crown race sizes and JIS or ISO.

Would something like this be suitable?

Tange Seiki Levin CDS headset 1

A low stack height satin finish steel headset for 1

thecycleclinic.co.uk

And would it be 26.4 or 30 crown race.

Sorry for silly questions think I'm overcomplicating things...


Thanks!!

 

[CassidyAce]

You're not over-complicating things and, unless someone else who has the same model and knows the measurements responds, you're going to have to do some measuring. You can confirm that the steerer is 1 inch just by measuring the diameter with a ruler (or measure the stem: 22.2 mm for a 1 inch headset). For the crown race, you will need Verniers. It will be 26.4 mm or 27.0 mm. See Sheldon for further info: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-headsets.html?utm_content=cmp-true.

 

[DrDaveTampa]

I have a 2 prong approach. First I search the internet for specs, scanned catalogs are invaluable. Figure out what the original equipment was, and then look up those specs. Then I confirm by measuring myself. 9 times out of 10 that works. The other 1 time out of 10 I go crying to the bike shop for help.

Headset replacement is one of the things I prefer for the shop to do. Not because it's hard to figure out what headset to get, that part is pretty standardized. But rather, because it's a royal PIA swapping that thing without the right tools.

If all you want is a generic headset, there's an argument for buying it at the bike shop. Then it's their problem if they run out of threads or something

Also they won't put the bearings in upside down. Hate when that happens

 

[Miles]

You're not over-complicating things and, unless someone else who has the same model and knows the measurements responds, you're going to have to do some measuring. You can confirm that the steerer is 1 inch just by measuring the diameter with a ruler (or measure the stem: 22.2 mm for a 1 inch headset). For the crown race, you will need Verniers. It will be 26.4 mm or 27.0 mm. See Sheldon for further info: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-headsets.html?utm_content=cmp-true.

Thanks CassidyAce that's helpful. Glad to know I'm not being silly. I don't suppose the ritchey headset you had for sale a year ago which has popped up on the 'similar threads' section below is available?

 

[Miles]

I have a 2 prong approach. First I search the internet for specs, scanned catalogs are invaluable. Figure out what the original equipment was, and then look up those specs. Then I confirm by measuring myself. 9 times out of 10 that works. The other 1 time out of 10 I go crying to the bike shop for help.

Headset replacement is one of the things I prefer for the shop to do. Not because it's hard to figure out what headset to get, that part is pretty standardized. But rather, because it's a royal PIA swapping that thing without the right tools.

If all you want is a generic headset, there's an argument for buying it at the bike shop. Then it's their problem if they run out of threads or something

Also they won't put the bearings in upside down. Hate when that happens

Thanks DrDave that makes a lot of sense!

 

[CassidyAce]

Thanks CassidyAce that's helpful. Glad to know I'm not being silly. I don't suppose the ritchey headset you had for sale a year ago which has popped up on the 'similar threads' section below is available?

Sorry. I should have updated that thread. Not available anymore.

 

[DrDaveTampa]

I've been seeing a bunch of ritchey headsets on ebay for not much money. Also if you watch ebay, Campy Record headsets pop up for not much money, those are super nice. I'm always on the lookout for Stronglight headsets, the ones with roller (or "needle") bearings. I imagine they are easier to find in Europe ... if you come across one for a reasonable price, and they do come up from time to time, I'd consider snagging it. Tange also makes a needle bearing headset, brief but informative discussion here. All that said, I recently installed a Tange Levin (typical doctor, I never take my own advice) and ya know, it's really decent. It's like a state-of-the-art early 90's design that's been frozen in time. Great value imo. I think you're barking up the right tree

I have not personally run into issues with fitting the headset in the head tube, that part is pretty standardized -- I'm not sure when it was standardized, but it has been for the late 80's+ bikes I've been working on. I've been led to believe that Japanese-manufactured bikes much older than that took EC29 headsets, but every bike I've worked on with a 1" steerer took an EC30

"Stack" height can be an issue; remember, the steerer tube was cut for the headset that's already in there. If the new headset is significantly taller (eg it uses cartridge bearings) you could run into issues. Unclear to me the extent to which threading is likely to be an issue, possibly not for Campy headsets (see here), I haven't run into problems with mine. It's the French you gotta watch out for. Keep your eye on those guys.

 

[Tootyred]

As @CassidyAce said, if its one inch, you will need to known if its jis or iso. Both were standard on many bikes in the late 80s and early 90s. Pre 90, marin etc used (at times) jis headsets, so its not always asian or European companies that can have non iso sets.

As for stack, just measure your fork, measure your headtube and subtract one from other.....

A pair ofcheap analogue verniers is £5..... learn how to read them and they will be a great mate in the workshop for ever! The battery never runs flat and they dont give false readings like cheap digiral ones can if your not careful.

again as said above measure the fork crown as it has a noticeable difference between iso and the jis.....26.4 vs 27.0. Measuring the i.d. of the headtube is far harder as there is only 0.2mm difference.