EDIT: September 2010 Fianlly i'm happy with the looks and the ride is even better! Just have a few finishing touches to do.







EDIT: 10/07/2010 Original Parkpre rigid forks (Spinner triple butted)



EDIT. 8/04/10 Changed to Judy SL's










17" Tange Ultimate Ultralight tubing.
M739 groupset apart from M737 rear mech, M737 spuds and M735 front mech!
Mavic 121SUP Rims
Judy DH Forks

Mmmm, I could find a home for that.

One 'detail' - I thought it was Ultimate Superlight (which is a fraction lighter than Ultimate Ultralight)?

Me too, but the sticker says Ultralight
Fraction heavier yes but stronger on the joints than superlight. Still damn light and only a few grammes between the two!

mmm ... should be Superlight like the man said, don't know the answer to that one.

Cool bike Wish I had a 19" 825 to add to my collection. Could I have a proper photo of the downtube decals, Ti plated sticker and head tube badge for the website, if that is possible?

I'll sort spme pics out at the weekend for you

Damaged my knee while on holiday last week and i only just finished putting the bike together just before i left, so still haven't ridden this bike properly! I can't wait!

One possibility that occurs to me is that I read somewhere that under US consumer protection law, the sticker has to be true only of what it is attached to. So it isn't impossible that the top and down tubes are Superlight and it's just the seat tube that is Ultralight.

For example, the bike shown below had an Ultrastrong down tube and seat tube, but an Ultralight top tube. And the previous year's model didn't have an Ultimate badge at all, because its seat tube was Concept - even though it had an Ultrastrong down tube and an Ultralight top tube.

Just a possibility.

[edited to include 'the bike shown below' that wasn't]

Wow, interesting theory, you may well be right! I was thinking it could have been an early frame. I doubt we'll ever find out TBH.

From what i've researched the chemical composition is exactly the same for the two, so is the butt wall thickness (0.5mm), the only variation is the ends of the tubes (joints) where the thickness is 0.9mm versus 0.8mm, greatly increasing strength with very little weight gain.... so the theory goes anyway.

Yes, I'm sure it's just the butts that differ, the basic tubes are the same heat-treated 0.5mm material. Typically a butted tube of say 55cm (TT) will have around 10cm of butted length, 8cm of taper and so the remaining 37cm is the basic 0.5cm tube. so my excel tells me that a 8-5-8 tube will be about 4% lighter than a 9-5-9. And the top and down tubes weigh c800g say, so you're talking about 30g difference. Not a lot, if you're gaining extra strength by the butt being 0.4 instead of 0.3. Although it must be said that 0.3mm butts is pretty much the standard, and 0.4 is quite rare.

30g is not a lot at all. And it looks like the seatube is the same.

There are two superlights, the lower one with the thinner butts is road frame.

edit: Just have to add that i've still not ridden this bike! My knee is still buggered

Found out a great way of working out where the butting is on bike tubes. Bring a cold clean bike into a warm house - allow condensation to form on the bike tubes - as the bike slowly warms up the condensation will evaporate from the thinner (quicker to warm up) tubes. The final effect is a tube with condensation on the fatter ends and a dry in the middle. You can see how far the butting extends allong the tube.

Pics as requested. If you need higher resolution let me know and i'll email them. Unedited is 10Mpixel.

Pictures are perfect, thank you

Ti Plated. I was wondering what the finish was.

I like the looks.

Had a few rides since, and it's very nice and fast, climbs brilliantly too.

looks very nice! that judy DH is pretty nice to! they acctually felt very good, and do have 80mm of travel so they measure up to anything even today...

I was going around thinking of what colour my next project shall have, but dark red with white panels seems to be a good idea!