Xtr crank resto - how bad can it be!

Excellent, now chuck the Autosove in the bin and apply a more modern product, one with tarnish/corrosion inhibitors like MAAS and you won’t need to lacquer them. 😉
 
I feel a bit bad as the state of them and the need to get a bit "medieval " on them to start with, is not normal for restoring most parts. I hope the idea that you have to attack parts as i did has not put anybody off!

The point was really that even if they are truly horrid, salvation is at hand.

In most cases a selection of wet and dry paper and some autosol style metal polish in a tube will get you good results. Use the paper wet, soak it first for 10mins and change the water regularly. Work you way through the grades.

First few grades 240 /400 should take out the worst and then 400, 600, 1200. That's what did here.

Sinnerman is completely correct that a polishing kit is far easier once past the 400 stage and you have got out and physical damage. They are reasonably cheap on ebay, say £20 and can go in an electric drill, shoved in a workmate if needs be!

But this is the budget way (£10), with not much risk to fingers, eyes and hair from rotating discs and flying bits of metal. If your going to polish by machine.....watch and read a few safely tips first is my advise.

But do have a go, its very satisfying when you turn rot into gold.

Modern day alchemy!
 
As for the corrosion factor Mr Peachy! .....I walk round 24 hours a day with an oily rag in my hand.....

What is this corrosion you speak of?
 
Pleased to hear you did it all by hand.

That's been my approach thus far, and it's good to know I can keep on as I have been, even with something as "far gone" as this!

The drill-bit/dremel polishing kit should probably be looked into at some point tho...
 
I would probably look at a small drill based arbor kit. Polishing takes a bit of ummph. Probably more than a dremel.


Something like this. Ive had stuff from these guys in the past. Very helpful. Arbour fits a drill.

One tip. Try sanding each " grade" of paper in a different direction.....that way when you move on to the next grade, you can tell when you have been over all of it enough as the previous directions scratches will be gone !

Good luck
 
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As for the corrosion factor Mr Peachy! .....I walk round 24 hours a day with an oily rag in my hand.....

What is this corrosion you speak of?
 
Good work there!

Often thought of a real challenge; Middleburn RS7 that are utterly battered from trial use! I've
seen them sell for single digit numbers. Reshape and polish them to something similar like the
RS8 road cranks. I reckon there is enough beef on the RS7s to take out the deepest of gashes,
smooth the edge lines out and still end up with very solid crank for road / light off road use.
 
I too went the similar route last year and got M900 kit that was cosmetically poor for a fraction of what the tidy stuff costs.I used tinfoil and water on the alloy and it brought it up beautifully.
 
I did my scabby M900’s recently. Not 100% happy with them but much better than they were, just waiting on some decals and new chain ring bolts.

After!
DA2C2419-817F-44E5-9A01-394E4ED01FDE.jpeg

As bought
A279CB34-497F-45FF-A799-4495A2E0B55A.jpeg
 
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