New Cable Routing - Stressed! :(

[ThePowster]

Evening guru's.

OK.. (sigh)… cable routing.

I'm stressed this evening because I don't know what I'm doing :facepalm:

I have managed to install new brake cable outers and set them up and they are both looking fine, enough cable for them to be wrapped in bar tape and not much excess but just enough to allow bar to bar if I get a tank slapper down hill at 80mph

Gear cables, now this is where I am struggling.

I am starting with the rear mech, so first hurdle is, which side of the frame does the cable run down because under the frame is that cable guide, one is for the front mech, one is for the rear.

I'm pretty sure (don't quote me on that) that the rear mech cable should run down the drive side (right hand side) of the frame and through the cable guide to the rear mech.

So if that is right, do I just need enough outer to get me to the cable stop converter thing and its bare cable after that? If so, I cannot seem to get the outer to go into the cable stop and not wobble all over the place when I turn the bars, it's just not neat, I need enough outer to go bar to bar but it loops around itself and all sorts and doesn't look right.

I've took some pics but not sure they will help.






So does anyone have any pics they could show me or explain it in laymans terms how to cable up the rear mech properly and where I use the outer =, I think theres a small bit at the back with the tiagra mech?

Ta muchly in advance

So close.. yet so far.

In other news. I got some nice banana yellow race face pedals installed today and got the Ultegra chain on too. Just need a braze on clamp, new bar tape, garmin mount, um, somehow attach the Raleigh badge back on with glue of some sort and that should be it! Go KOM hunting on strava

 

[legrandefromage]

Make sure you are using gear out and not brake outer?

heres some pics post ride

 

[legrandefromage]

and at the back

 

[ThePowster]

Thanks for that legrandefromage.

Yep I bought 2 packs, a gear cable and outer pack and a gear one.

So the rear mech shifter on the right hand side is going to the left non drive side then cable criss crossing underneath the bike.

Coolio thanks

P.S. Rear pic helps too, thanks

 

[legrandefromage]

You don't have to cross them, I do it for neatnessnessness to keep the cable outers off the paint

 

[ThePowster]

Coolio thanks

 

[was8v]

I always cross them too.

Also - cables go under the bar tape.

 

[ThePowster]

Yep I'm going to put fresh tape on, I only wrapped these during the build as the bars kept spinning round and hitting the frame when working on it.

 

[Sand_Dune]

Evening guru's.

OK.. (sigh)… cable routing.

I'm stressed this evening because I don't know what I'm doing :facepalm:

... Go KOM hunting on strava

Never considered crossing the cables before; it never entered my small man space inbetween my ears...will have to think about that for next time.... see if it appeals.

Other things to add from what others have said...

1. Use electrical insulation tape to secure the cables to the bar first. It enables you to get the right cable outer lengths sorted out and you can fanny around (as I do) making sure everything is the right length before you commit to a given outer lengths.

2. I leave the insulation tape on and add the bar tape afterwards. It secures it firmly in place right up to the end of the bar tape.

3. Make sure you are in the right ballpark in terms of handlebar height when you test fit the outers and turn the bars full left and right.

4. Take your time; extra faff and fanny time (that sounds wrong, but i'm leaving it in) is good if it is your first time.

5. Cut the outer cable too long. All is good you can trim it shorter at your leisure (see point 4 above re: fannying around). This is why the electrical insulation tape is good it keeps the outers in the right place.

6. Cut the cable to short. You've fecked it and need to buy another one and you didn't fanny around long enough.

7. Make a new segment on Strava, ride it twice and get your KOM!

8. re 7 above. Everyone will know you have done this and think you are a fanny!

9. Not knowing what you are doing is good...it get's boring & tedious when you do know what you are doing.

Looking good!

Like the man cave!

Sand_Dune

 

[ThePowster]

Re:



Love point 7:

It's like you read my mind this evening. I couldn't get the cable outer right and it was snapping back and forth like an eel, so what I did was stop, take it back to basics, removed the protective bar tape and did as you said and used electrical tape and taped both the brake outer and gear outer to the bar, this was a lot more stable and I can see now just how much more I have to take off the outer for it to be perfect.

Starting to look like a bike

Also I managed to keep the rear mech outer on the drive side and it still looks tidy up front, I felt that crossing wires (knowing my luck) would have them rub and fray and cause me a whole host of problems down the line so if I could keep the line straight that would be my best option, so far so good. I even managed to take her up n down the cassette, just need a slight adjustment on the low stop and shes all indexed and ready to ride.

So the changing factor this evening was electrical taping the outers to the bars, it made things a lot easier once I did that.

Need to order some Peter Sagan Fizik black n white bar tape now, still need that braze on clamp, jeez I think this time next week I'll be rollin.

Bit worried about the 11-25 cassette when I struggle with my 11-28 on me CAAD 12 also interested to see how 28mm tyres roll.

Be shocked if this thing just works, am kinda expecting it to just crumble soon as I sit on it, I'll keep it all crossed.

Oh shes a heavy beast too, in unmolested spec she was 12kg and it's gonna be over 11 by time it's done, close to 12 with bottle cages and garmin mount and sensors, still it'll get me fit carrying all this extra ballast and hopefully when I throw a leg back over the CAAD thats 4kg lighter I'll be evenin quicker again.

Excited, can't wait to snap some necks on this thing