Kona Kula '96

fattylikescustard

Retro Newbie
Hello folks,

I've used the forum as a lurker for info on older bike builds that I've done so I thought I'd contribute something for a change. Recent acquisition is a Kona Kula in reasonable condition from an online auction site, I think it's '96 but am open to correction!

I'm planning to use it through winter as a second bike and won't be treating it as a restoration just tidying it up and keeping it on the trail, so to speak.

Frame: Kona Kula Easton Elite

Fork: RockShox Judy XC

Headset: Kona
Stem: Kona velocity
Stem Cap: N/A
Handlebar: Easton
Grips: black things
Barends: not sure

Brakes: Magura HS11
Brake Pads: Magura
Brake Cables: Magura
Cantilever cable hangers: N/A
Brake Levers: Magura

Shifters: Sachs twist grip rear 7 speed indexed, front friction shift
Front Derailleur: Sachs
Rear Derailleur: XT
Derailleur Cables: black :)
Cassette: Shimano
Chain: SRAM
Cranks: Curve
Crank Bolts: Curve?
Chainrings: Curve?
Chainring bolts: Curve? (certainly rounded off somewhat)
Bottom Bracket: Curve?
Pedals: Deore XT

Hub Skewers: Deore XT
Rims: Mavic 217
Hubs: XT
Nipples: yes
Spokes: 32
Tyres: Schwalbe CX comp
Tubes: yes

Saddle: Selle Italia Turbo-matic 2
Seatpost: Not sure, looks a generic?
Seatpost Binder: Kona

Weight 24 lbs?
 

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fattylikescustard

Retro Newbie
Re:

Bike was delivered in a box so I set about cleaning it before reassembly as it clean-ish but not shipshape. Used a temporary bench, rather precarious there.

Using diesel and a brush I gave everything a clean. And gave myself a headache even in the open air.



Sachs front mech, badly adjusted it's set too high on the seat tube for some reason



I opened up the headset and the grease looked like it hadn't been touch since being delivered to the bike shop. It's that brown coloured grease that larger manufacturers tend to use. Luckily the bearings were fine but the lower race does show some wear. I have to apologise for not taking pics but everything was getting covered in diesel at this point.



Rear mech was not clean - mixture of dried-up oil and dirt, consistency of concrete, took several goes with a toothbrush (used my partners, obviously). This grotty stuff was also on the chainrings.


I also gave the interior of the frame and fork tubes a quick spray of DINITROL 1000 for corrosion protection.
 

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fattylikescustard

Retro Newbie
Re:

And then I noticed this at the top of the head tube, at about 7'o clock as you sit in the saddle.

:(

Not good news, especially on an alloy frame. Having looked at the range of cracks on google images I haven't found one at the location - most are at 12'o clock or between 9 and 3 o'clock, which I take as an indication of where the higher stress areas are.... I suspect this might have happened due to the hoop stress from forcing the top race in plus road loads, etc, and just been ignored, possibly. Maybe wishful thinking.

Cutting and filling the crack with a weld is beyond my capabilities (and workshop equipment!). Various recommendations include drilling the root of the crack as if it were plastic but with the top race behind it I'm reluctant to do this. Other options include a bodge job with a Jubilee clip.... :O

I've decided to reassemble and monitor what happens. I'm never doing big mileages, drop offs, DH, and all my riding is local so I should be able to stop if it gets suddenly worse.

"should"

Let's see what happens!
 

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al-onestare

Kona Fan
Re: Re:

fattylikescustard":2mlbyxwd said:
And then I noticed this at the top of the head tube, at about 7'o clock as you sit in the saddle.

:(

Not good news, especially on an alloy frame. Having looked at the range of cracks on google images I haven't found one at the location - most are at 12'o clock or between 9 and 3 o'clock, which I take as an indication of where the higher stress areas are.... I suspect this might have happened due to the hoop stress from forcing the top race in plus road loads, etc, and just been ignored, possibly. Maybe wishful thinking.

Cutting and filling the crack with a weld is beyond my capabilities (and workshop equipment!). Various recommendations include drilling the root of the crack as if it were plastic but with the top race behind it I'm reluctant to do this. Other options include a bodge job with a Jubilee clip.... :O

I've decided to reassemble and monitor what happens. I'm never doing big mileages, drop offs, DH, and all my riding is local so I should be able to stop if it gets suddenly worse.

"should"

Let's see what happens!

Good luck. It'll go and it could go in spectacular fashion, even on the flat stuff as mine did! viewtopic.php?f=6&t=323692&start=10
 

fattylikescustard

Retro Newbie
Re: Re:

al-onestare":2i4k5oxf said:
Good luck. It'll go and it could go in spectacular fashion, even on the flat stuff as mine did! viewtopic.php?f=6&t=323692&start=10

Dang. Took it for a brief ride in the mud just now. I'd not got it probably sorted, gears aren't too well tuned but even thrashing around in the leaves and mud in failing light it's obvious these frames handle very well. The mixed tyres will have to get swapped for something chunkier though.

Crack hasn't increased for what it's worth - I wonder what the relative damage is road to trail, I doubt I'd get to anyway near to 16k like you did!

(was literally just admiring that Team Issue Kona paint job of yours. Wow! I've also got an Explosif and Hahanna of similar vintage btw :) )
 
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