digitalkreation
Retro Guru
Also seeking a little help in replacement of the bearings. Anyone know what size/model of bearing I'm seeking?
Help me identify these Nuke Proof hubs?
- Thread starter digitalkreation
- Start date
Wack them out.....there should be a code on the bearing seals. Go for a good quality make like SKF. I would avoid things like the ceramic bearing options if i were you
digitalkreation":2pzrcgdh said:Also seeking a little help in replacement of the bearings. Anyone know what size/model of bearing I'm seeking?
agreed, if you are planning to replace the bearings, you might as well start taking them apart and you can identify the ones you need as they should be marked. though i'd advise against just "wacking" them out. i'd take a little more care/caution. :roll: 
digitalkreation
Retro Guru
Thanks for the advice, all!
Back to my 1st question (in subject) - Do these hubs have a model name?
Back to my 1st question (in subject) - Do these hubs have a model name?
digitalkreation
Retro Guru
Thanks for the help, all! R6-2RS is the bearing info and I've found them all over the internet.
Second (and hopefully final) question.. How on earth do I get these bearings out? There doesn't appear to be any clearance between bearing and flange at all..
I'm sure there's a trick..
Second (and hopefully final) question.. How on earth do I get these bearings out? There doesn't appear to be any clearance between bearing and flange at all..
I'm sure there's a trick..
syncrosfan
Senior Retro Guru
There's no trick. Just open the tiny set screws in the aluminum collars, slide those off. Then take a plastic hammer an carefully tap on the axle (first from one side, then from the other when the first bearing popped out). Same trick works for the rear axle as well.
Btw., if you have the version with the Shimano free-hub you could upgrade it to a XTR or Dura Ace one, that will make your rear hub considerably lighter...
When pressing in the new bearings, make sure you apply pressure on the outer race ONLY (otherwise you'll ruin the fancy new bearings).
I have a set of NOS Nuke Proof Atom Bomb hubs and the rear hub takes the R6-2RS bearings, didn't find SKF bearings in that size so I got a pair of FAG precision bearings instead.
The original chinese bearings on those hubs are crap. My front hubs use oversize 61804-2RS1 bearings which I got from SKF. You probably have the previous version of the Atom Bombs that use the same size bearings in the front and back. In general Nuke Proof hubs are very easy to work on. Now keep your fingers crossed that they won't de-laminate.
Btw., if you have the version with the Shimano free-hub you could upgrade it to a XTR or Dura Ace one, that will make your rear hub considerably lighter...
When pressing in the new bearings, make sure you apply pressure on the outer race ONLY (otherwise you'll ruin the fancy new bearings).
I have a set of NOS Nuke Proof Atom Bomb hubs and the rear hub takes the R6-2RS bearings, didn't find SKF bearings in that size so I got a pair of FAG precision bearings instead.
The original chinese bearings on those hubs are crap. My front hubs use oversize 61804-2RS1 bearings which I got from SKF. You probably have the previous version of the Atom Bombs that use the same size bearings in the front and back. In general Nuke Proof hubs are very easy to work on. Now keep your fingers crossed that they won't de-laminate.
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