Clockwork refurb/build questions

ishaw

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So, I unearthed the wife's clockwork that has been stored in the shed for 4 years with a view to giving it the once over as I though that would be all it needed as it came as a full bike and all I did to it was swap a few bolts for purple bling and fit some decals where needed.

Sadly the thing has turned into a can of worms, so it's now been stripped of all parts and is going to get a bit of love and a deep clean.

As it is now in bits, I am thinking of taking the opportunity of rebuilding it differently to how it came apart.

I'm going to stick with the xt m737/9 mechs, though I'm not convinced the top pull mech that came off is the right one as the cable angle from the frame stop was very steep and a lot of effort at the shifter was needed to get the top ring, to the point there was a creaking noise. The frame has a roller mount and my thinking is that as the frame is as small as it gets, a roller is needed to avoid the steep cable angle that results in the inner cable rubbing against the frame stop. Anyone know if this would be the way to go?

Sticking with gears for the moment, I've got some mint m739 sti and also some seperate levers/shifters. I'm leaning towards using the sti for cleaner bars.

Cranks up next. M737 cane off which were tidy enough but I've a minty set of m739 ones. Any thoughts on which are the better crank? Toying with the idea of middle burns with a compact spider but a voice in the back of my head is also saying I could use some caramba sidewinder cranks that I've had for years. I know this is for the wife, but she knows nothing about bikes so I might as well build it up as nicely as I can (ill have to ride with her after all).

Forks are the next dilemma and probably the most important decision. I have the original threaded rigid forks but since getting the bike I fitted a set of pace mxc forks that just backdated refurbed and fitted the time stage 2 bolt kit to. A nice looking fork that works. The voices are saying I could use them, or I could fit a mint set of pace evos (carbon and gold nitride), as these use springs rather than elastomers and would be easier to keep on the road in the future. I think I may also have a set of range big forks with a one inch ahead steerer somewhere but not 100% sure. Not sure where to go with this one so any direction gratefully received.

Headset choice is OK as I have a black Chris king that can he either threaded or ahead, which brings me neatly on to stems. Currently got a syncros fitted with little to no rise which I'm sure won't be as comfy for my wife as sonething with rise. It's also not quite as black as the rest of the bits (matt rather than satin/slightly glossy). Whichever fork choice is made I can see a new stem on the cards. What should I look for? A glossier syncros with rise would be nice I guess as it would match the seat post, but I'm sure my options in 1 inch would be limited, especially as I'd prefer one with a removable face plate.

Bars were going to be hot rod, but I guess I could fit a riser bar if I can't get a stem with rise.

Wheels I think will be mavic crosslinks (as I have some), which might tie in the evo forks grey bits, and I can use some grey hope skewers I have kicking about.

Saddle will be an orange branded one I think.

Nearly forgot about brakes. XT vs are an option as I seem to have a spare set or two for some reason, but it also seems like an opportunity to break out the onza v brakes as I can swap the cable run with these to keep it all down the right side of the frame. That said, the cable run for the xt brakes doesn't seem to be that bad.

I don't think I've missed anything but any help towards decision making would be much appreciated as I'm kind of stuck with the options I have and an indecisive nature.

Thanks
 
I knew I'd miss something. The rear mech was previously not too clever when on the small ring and biggest cogs. Not enough space between the top jockey and the cassette. Limit screw was at its limit tension wise, does this mean the spring doesn't have enough tension or is there another reason, chain too long??
 
M737 cranks were (in my opinion) the nicest MTB cranks that Shimano ever made. However a nod in the Brit build direction with Middleburns always looks so right on an Orange.

Similarly Pace with Orange. It's the law.
 
Cheers. Cranks are easy to chop and change as they run the same BB axle length. Once the other decisions have been made I can mock up the other bits and see which suit best.
 
Its a base £500 quid bike, i think the frameset was £299. STX-rc standard, then up to i think about £800 for best dressed :? XT max. Not place on a clockwork for xtr or that ilk.
I always find(now) that the period spec on something like a clockwork, prestige or even P7 if kept at the low end, looks considerably better.
XT is good, but the wheels i think would be better XT also

Did i mention i have a spare XT m737 set of crank arms, with their BB and also as luck would have it, a set of FIR Orange branded rims,laced to XT hubs ;) :)
The rims are worn, but i think theres lots of use left, and i'd give a good price.

More often than not, people play with these set screws without really knowing what theyre for.
It might indicate a worn chain, but other than that just screw it back out and drop the height.

I'd a call from a friend asking to go sort his mechs. Hes a basic rider with no mechanical skills.I arrived to find every screw from both mechs sitting in a bowl :facepalm:


Pace with Orange
:?
Could be said that the shops that sold Orange, also sold pace and marzocchi, being at that time a bit special and not the usual off the shelf lbs fare. The type of place kept C2's in stock and everyone rode them.
Clever money rode the bombers ;)

Often hears on the track bitd "Anyone got a pace grease gun ?"
 
dyna-ti":10xwbj2e said:
Its a base £500 quid bike, i think the frameset was £299. STX-rc standard, then up to i think about £800 for best dressed :? XT max. Not place on a clockwork for xtr or that ilk.

Bike snob. :LOL:
 
Thanks for that. I think I'd prefer to keep it an XT groupset but the current wheels are a no-no as my wife really does have an aversion to brown metal things. She often refuses change in shops as a result, which is why being a good husband, I'm catering for this. Intrigued by your wheels, assuming they are not the earlier xt? Thanks for the offer on the cranks, I've the pair I've just taken off for cleaning plus a pair in the spares box so all good on that front.

I was hoping I could do this on a budget of zero, using the stash, but you might be right on the wheels.
 
hamster":p01rpv6c said:
Bike snob. :LOL:
I've certainly become one.

I think xt is the right groups for this build as it complements the black frame nicely. I'm hoping to keep it as black and silver as possible if I can, some grey may creep in depending on fork/wheel choice.
 
Or champagne gold :LOL: as thats what the rims are colour wise. Understated :? Hubs are parallax, not the skinny body ones from earlier.

ishaw":ml35rwxu said:
hamster":ml35rwxu said:
Bike snob. :LOL:
:LOL:
Im actually a bums on saddles kind of PR bike nut. The legs turning and the brain thinking. The Socialist Cyclist :D
 
ishaw":3n6n8nfo said:
I knew I'd miss something. The rear mech was previously not too clever when on the small ring and biggest cogs. Not enough space between the top jockey and the cassette. Limit screw was at its limit tension wise, does this mean the spring doesn't have enough tension or is there another reason, chain too long??

Sounds like to much tension in the knuckle, maybe the spring was put in the wrong hole?
 
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