1995 Orange P7 Brake and Gear Cables Question

[Laserblueexige]

Some advice would be much appreciated.

Looking to buy a set of both gear and brake cables and associated outers for my 1995 Orange P7 M737 groupset.

I would want to go new rather than retro and stick with Shimano and am leaning towards getting the best I can.

Been a bit confused over Polymer, SP41, Road, MTB, Optislick, black end caps (when I want silver), length I need etc as it not a modern day bike.

Thought this was going to be the easy purchasing bit...but I don't seem able to get my head around it this morning....

Any help would be appreciated

 

[2manyoranges]

Re:

I think you can have your cake and eat it.

Having had Oranges since they were Tushingham I've seen and fitted a lot of cables and outers, and know the foibles of P7 routing inside out.

The best is probably the oldest - which is gold-letter Shimano brake and cable outer. When installed in the right lengths for each section, and installed with plenty of GT85 sprayed into the outer prior to installing the inner, then this is a very high-performing set-up.

But on P7s there are a couple of pinch points. The short section of gear outer which goes around the seat tube must not be cut too short. This frequently is done in error on P7s and no matter what quality the outers, the indexing will be shot. The section which goes to the rear V brake must also be cut precisely, not too long so that it interferes with the brake function by pushing the brakes over, and not too short that it pulls them. If you are on cantilevers its quite a bit easier, since the outer is static and runs between the stop just in front of the seat tube to the brazed on stop on the wishbone. Final critical length is the rear mech loop from the lower seat stay to the mech. This often is cut far too short, which again messes with indexing - on P7s, with the cable coming down the seat stay, you can get water ingress - so keep the GT85 going in...and the cable has to go through two changes of radius, one an upward swoop and then a swoop round to the back of the mech. There has to be enough outer to make these very smooth radii so that changes is smooth.

All of this can be done brilliantly or terribly, and as I mentioned, you can buy the very best expensive outers and then get terrible performance by cutting the lengths wrong. Cut well, the classic Shimano gold-letter works wonderfully.

 

[Laserblueexige]

Thankyou for such a detailed response....the question of Orange cabling appears to be an artform in its own right!! I will take extra care when cutting the new outers to the exact size of the originals. The indexing when the bike was new I considered to be pretty much spot on...I hope I can replicate this...

Do you know where I might be able to find some of this Gold Letter Classic Shimano outers you talk about...

 

[mk one]

The same applies to any bike really, any bends need to be smooth so the inner runs smoothly.

I use this outer cable, they stock gear and brake outer and also all inners and ferrules,

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-Meters-Bik ... SwNSxVEVi1


One thing i would suggest, is a decent pair of cable cutters.

 

[2manyoranges]

Re:

...ah...not quite so easy as just cutting to the length on there, since they may have been cut too short....which frequently is the case on P7s, C16Rs etc. I think take a really good look at the outers, in place, when the inners have been removed, and make a judgement in each case as to whether they are the right length. Cut a small length of cable - say 50cms, without any ends, and se how it feels going through the outer, and then mentally adjust the length you are cutting as needed.

Sourcing Shimano sp51 cable:

eg
https://www.bikester.co.uk/shimano-sis- ... gKx5PD_BwE

good call mk1 - Double vote for good cable cutters - park ones and shimano blue jobs are good and have the inside groove for crimping cable ends...

 

[Laserblueexige]

Re:

Thanks for that......got my eyes on a set of Park Tools wire cutters....seems you get what you pay for in this area...