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Posted before. Seen it in real. It was just sublime. Faultless. Hard to think this is actually a half an handful off our internal RB retro cut off date when all is considered today.

Great thread this. Years ago there was a site called "Ti rides" that for one had actually proper information and not bull crap marketing stuff. What was clear sadly Ti got a double blow in the MTB world. Changes of taste to more DH brutes out of cheaper AL and stuff like plastic and soot and...

Yes 👍 Designed in Sweden, made and imported from Russia during more optimistic times: https://www.magmaa.com/

Sorry no close up details. Pictures gone with multiple computer changes. All I will say it was perfect welding. I mean perfect. Top to bottom. The finish also perfect. Russian built. From an early Swedish internet start-up importing. Site is is well gone now, but it did make it's little mark...

Seeing it. Yup. Looks like Salsa Cromoto forks up front to boot. Dia-Compe simple aero brake levers and Shimano thumbies. A right pick of the crop and well selected. Bullet proof. For me this is like an high end build, but you didnt't build it to "pose" and you built it for purpose for...

Lovely. It is early I think possibly earliest very late 80s even? Built like it was a steel frame of the period so still in exploration mode and standards. Lynsky period I think. Basically, anything retro Ti for MTB at least you can count on just a little bit more than one hand. There's the...

There's a lot I like about this and not so much I dislike. This must be something like a 2000 MTB drop-bar conversion? Mechanical external cabling 💋 Avid BB7s disc brakes. I think I see some retro Topline cranks too and keeping it a triple. Think it's a rare mid-cage Campag rear mech like...

+3 @24pouces - who cares if it's not an MTB. They did and will still do custom MTBs. It's of a calibre worth sharing. I would need to play Russian roulette with myself aka "The Deer Hunter" if money was no object between a Moots and Passoni. They are both companies at their peak but have a...

@trailwright - another nice Sandvik. Was this originally an highly polished finish?

^ Interesting advert description; never actually heard about failures concerning these frames till now. With the repair which will probably hold up, still think that is a bit overpriced to be honest. Sold mine last year for more-or-less the same amount and included new original decals. All it...

Old video from the then Airborne manufacturing plant.

1995 DBR Axis TT, by the late Sandvik Special Metals, USA. The most precisely made frame I've ever owned.

Nice thread 👍 :cool:

Probably will not be necessary depending on the rider weight. Should be good to around 85 kg or a little more no problem. Those old seat-posts would be thick walled. The gallows are welded and smooth filed. IMHO though the saddle clamp is about right on the seat-post but the saddle itself...

😍 :cool: Is that the level we are on now - to get to the pub and back all aero for £5 ? Like striving for a personal best before, in and exiting the pub?

Interesting. The old grease question pops up regularly - years and years ago someone did make a good point that many "high performance" products are overkill on a bike since RPM and operating temperatures tend to be low. By far just regular maintenance goes a long way. In my experience looking...

A grease thread, in the road section. And a bonus of a chain lube rant mixed in. I personally find all that's not important and necessary for garage queens and photographs of them to post here. https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads/grease.456112/

31.6 seat-post would most certainly mean oversized 34.9. A 27.00 - 27.2 post will indeed be very likely to be a 31.8mm FD clamp on a MTB but I would double check with a vernier especially if it is a steel frame. I have a Reynolds 520 road frame with a 27.2mm seat-post but it requires...

First shell width to get right. 2nd spindle / axle length. This will depend on the crank and your frame. An old database is on Sheldon Brown, but best pop the question for your crank here. You can already measure what kind of clearance or Q-factor you need by measuring from the BB centre to...

The only other couple of details missing, but will not really be a concern is chain-stay angle and BB shell width. Only a concern when dealing with larger chain rings for a MTB FD (like in old school DH) or fitting a FD to very old frame with very slack angles. Diameters of the clamp is fairly...