September 2009

After deciding I had to have an early 90's e-stay I managed to get hold of this frameset a few weeks ago from Kaiser (thank you).
I've finally got around to building it up for some riding.

In terms of components I've tried to keep it as close to the period correct and original factory spec as possible with M550 LX mechs and M650 DX cranks, brakes and shifters.
I also got hold of some Tioga Farmer John's Cousins from Chris667 (thanks also) to complete the 1992 skinwall aesthetic. Plus they are still a good set of tyres IMO.
The seatpost and shim are a temporary measure until I find something more appropriate in 30.2mm flavour. The bars are also modern Ritcheys as I wouldn't trust a second-hand set of the originally specced 140 gram 'Ritchey Force Lites' with my life etc.
I also have the original decal set for this bike which will be applied once it's been re-powdercoated over the Winter.

These photos were taken on the maiden test run ahead of an NWA retro meet at Llandegla this weekend.




I am already quite pleased with the way it handles despite the weight added by the frame design. But that's not important because I love the way it looks.

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1992 Catalogue page



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My Kili Racer has been ridden several times now and has quickly become my favourite bike. Here are some pictures from various rides:

Llandegla - October 2009



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Cannock Turkey Twizzler - December 2009





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January 2009

I've spent a bit of time working on my Saracen including finally getting the decals applied and a bit of polish in time for it's entry into the BoTM Saracen special. I've decided to keep the original red powder coat for now and keep an eye on the bare metal under the BB.
After a bit of research and comparison I'm convinced that this is an early 1992 model, based on the dropouts and cable routing. These are identical to the 1992 catalogue image, and are similar to the 1991 frames.

Anyway here are a few more images in the snow.

Proper job looking fantastic. You've done it proud

If that was in BoTM that would get my vote!

I love the way they look, never riden one but if i saw one i'd snap it up for my stable

Cheers fellas
I'm glad you approve Kaiser.

that looks super clean (atm)

Excellent work! Looks lovely

Stunning bike and a good looking build too, its good to see it muddy

Do you have any colours in mind for the fresh powdercoat yet ? I am gunna have to get my Conquest refinished soon that the frame repairs are solid.

Photos were taken very early on in the ride, and it did need a good clean when I got home. I did however try to dodge most of the sheep sh*t.

I think at the moment I'll be sticking with the original colour because:
a) I really like it
b) I haven't any other red bikes
c) It's how it was BITD
d) I really like it

And here is the catalogue:

I had that exact model, in unridden state and I swapped it....


Duh.

Does it need a fresh powder coat? Looks immaculate!

looks great mate, and I think it looks good now- do you need to powdercoat it?

You can see things that we can't see, but it doesn't look like it needs repainting from here. Steel frames need preserving against rust, but unless there's any threat of that the original paint is a really important asset IMO. And if you've got authentic decals, you're well away. That's a classic British retro bike, ride with pride.

I see what you're saying regarding the original paint, but there is quite a substantial amount of bare metal on the non-drive side chainstay showing from heel rub and more underneath the BB shell.
I could try to find a colour match and touch it up with some paint, but it'd probably be safer in the long run to strip it all back, check for any hidden problems and then have it re-coated.
That way it will last at least another 20 years or so.

I'm riding it in the meantime though.

lovely bike. I would say that i have one also still have the force light bars on mine lol. Do you have that catalogue page in a bigger pic?

I think the important thing is to Kurust all exposed metal - that will stabilise it. Bare metal isn't really a problem, though, it's bubbling that you need to be wary of because that means rust coming from the inside. If you have that, I would totally agree with you.

I don't think an aftermarket powdercoat job is safe for anything like as long as 20 years though. The trouble is the steel usually isn't primed, all the paint goes on as one layer, which is very hard and stiff. So if there's any crack in the paint over the years, moisture can get in and get between the frame and the paint, causing unseen problems that can get bad before they're apparent.

If the basic paint is sound, my guess is that repairing it will last at least as long as you should leave a powdercoat before re-coating.