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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2008 9:55 pm 
Dirt Disciple
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Joined: Thu Oct 23, 2008 7:59 pm
Posts: 10
Anyone know anything about Nigel Dean road bikes? I don't know much to be honest.

A friend has given me his 653 racing frame, which had some damage to the down tube (looks like corrosion may have weakened it), but the dura-ace fitted bike was used in competition a decade or more back:

Image

What I didn't realise before I started this project, was that 653 road frames are 531pro main tubes (ie thin 531C) and then 753 stays, and were built that way partially due to Eddy Merckx request to have something more compliant over cobbles and such like (hence the very thin tubing in the main triangle).

Anyway, here's the frame and forks last week before repair at Argos Cycles, Bristol, where it is now.

Image

It's coming out with a new Reynolds 725 Down tube and will be orange in colour. I'll keep you posted.

It's to replace my Concorde singlespeed which died in a nasty accident (myself and a curb).

Chris


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 12:08 am 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Thu May 17, 2007 2:23 pm
Posts: 991
Location: Hampshire
I did a bit of digging a while back when I had a Nigel Dean and there was not a lot of info except that he was a pro rider turned builder. He had a shop in St albans (I think) and made some nice machines. When he decided to leave The staff continued to run the business for a time.

Good luck with the build, should be a corker.

Cheers


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 8:06 pm 
Dirt Disciple
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That's more info than I had, thanks. Yes, I'm looking forward to it, I'll put the photos up here sometime in January.

I think Argos are v busy due to the number of steel frames they are getting in for repair/painting.

Chris


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 8:28 pm 
Old School Hero

Joined: Thu Nov 27, 2008 10:03 pm
Posts: 196
throw it away :wink:
If the top tube has rusted away that badly from the inside out there will be nothing left of the other tubes internally either.
you can buy perfectly good frames for less than the price of an Argos respray


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 9:15 pm 
Dirt Disciple
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Too late, if it goes again I might, but if it works, it'll be worth it for sure.

The other tubes seemed ok internally. Seeing as though I'm not the lightest, it's either going to last a lifetime, or about a week.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 9:25 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Joined: Fri Oct 10, 2008 8:44 pm
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Location: Wherever it is, I'm being just that little bit more Lance
Ah the beauty of brazed steel! You can sweat the braze (or silver solder depending on how it was built) out and replace the tubes.

It's nice to know what the mix of tubes is and why they were selected. It'll build up into a gorgeous frame!

To stop it happening again I use Waxoyl in my steel frames. You can get it in an aerosol from Halfords. Like the name suggests it's a waxy oil that doesn't come pouring out, squirt a good dose in all the available holes, bottle bosses, all the tubes, forks etc, it'll stop them rusting through. Just don't have the frame powder coated/stove enamelled after you've done it. The oil and heat will not go together well!


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 10:35 pm 
Old School Hero

Joined: Thu Nov 27, 2008 10:03 pm
Posts: 196
chrisrhayes wrote:
Too late, if it goes again I might, but if it works, it'll be worth it for sure.

The other tubes seemed ok internally. Seeing as though I'm not the lightest, it's either going to last a lifetime, or about a week.


well I hope it doesn't cost too much to ressurect it. I am very attached to my steel framesets so I can dig where you're at. I've still got the first frame I braized together ,an old broken Carlton . :lol:


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 11:43 pm 
Old School Hero

Joined: Thu Nov 27, 2008 10:03 pm
Posts: 196
so what happened Chris ? did they manage to save the frame ? :wink:


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 7:11 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Sun Aug 03, 2008 12:31 am
Posts: 585
Location: London
Quote:
What I didn't realise before I started this project, was that 653 road frames are 531pro main tubes (ie thin 531C) and then 753 stays, and were built that way partially due to Eddy Merckx request to have something more compliant over cobbles and such like (hence the very thin tubing in the main triangle).


653 was 653 main tubes, 753 stays and 531 forks. The different numbers mean a different steel. I doubt Merckx had any connection with the introduction of 653 in about 1987 as he had retired about ten years before, and the "Eddy Merckx" frames made at his factory used Columbus tubing.


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 Post subject: Riding again
PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 9:35 am 
Dirt Disciple
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Joined: Thu Oct 23, 2008 7:59 pm
Posts: 10
Sorry yes been away. It's done, and initial photos are here:
http://velospace.org/node/17174

Yes I used a bit of waxoyl where I could get it, and I've left a small drain hole in the cinelli bottom bracket (where the screw goes in to hold the cable guide).

Downtube replaced with a 725 which probably stops the front end being *too* flexi (although it's noticably more compliant than the Concorde it replaces - I just hope it has the longevity). Which leaves the 753 rear end, and 531 pro top, head and seat tubes.

It's back in service now, just need some new handlebar tape and decent tyres.

First opinions: I need a higher gear as it gets to speed very quickly
Toe rubbing on sharp corners
No space for anything bigger than 26mm rubber

It reminds me of a time trialing frame made of Ishiwata 015 tubing (which was stupid light - coke can light), that broke. I hope this doesn't.

Chris


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