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PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2018 4:07 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Fri Jun 15, 2018 9:36 pm
Posts: 33
Location: Edinburgh
The bike came to me without its original mudguards. So I did some research on the web looking at old bike pics etc, think it would have been supplied new with Britannia celluloid mudguards, with front spearpoint, alloy V stays, and wing nuts. The closest I could get on the Bay was a set of Britannia mudguards off a green 1958 Raleigh Lenton Marque 111 – not many people breaking up Super Lentons these days!
Because the mudguard eyelets are located part way up the stays/forks on the Super Lenton, I had to trim down the original alloy V stays … with some regret :facepalm:

I was fortunate to get the original pump, the owner had wisely kept it in the garage separate from the bike. It’s stamped with the RI (Raleigh Industries) symbol however no other markings apart from 3 bands. Seems to be an alloy tube, with celluloid covering. Would this also have been supplied by Britannia?
It was functioning more as an extractor, however I sourced a new leather cup washer which was easily fitted (unscrew the old washer) … now it’s performing!
It’s an unusual length 18.5”, instead of the more usual industry standard 16”. I tried cleaning it with white spirit, to remove the brown staining – nae luck!

Adjourned … has started raining, again :shock:


Attachments:
File comment: Britannia mudguards
Mudguards Britannia (1024x768).jpg
Mudguards Britannia (1024x768).jpg [ 450.91 KiB | Viewed 242 times ]
File comment: RI Pump
Pump 18.5 inches (1024x768).jpg
Pump 18.5 inches (1024x768).jpg [ 435.6 KiB | Viewed 242 times ]
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2018 6:40 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Fri Jun 15, 2018 9:36 pm
Posts: 33
Location: Edinburgh
ONE day in December:
The weather relented here and allowed me to complete the refurbishment.
Why do mudguards always take so much longer to fit than anticipated, does anyone else find this? It took me ages to get them properly lined up etc. The wing nut fittings are great mind you (pic attached), so much quicker than fiddling with two 8mm spanners.

Anyway, apart from sourcing a few things such as tyres, Fibrax brake blocks, Adie ping bell, and possibly a less racy Brooks B66 saddle (nod to my age!), it’s ready for testing and use – hopefully I’ll achieve that over the next few weeks WP. I’ll report back on progress.

I was always aiming for “solid/presentable” and “useable” rather than anything more ambitious. Especially since the bike arrived in such unmolested condition.
All the work, at my own pace, has been a pleasure (not a chore). What I’ll do now is contact the original owner Michael, would be great to get a pic of the bike as it actually was in Swindon in the 50’s or 60’s, if such a thing actually exists!!
Neil.
(Everyday bike: Cannondale Furio 2005 MTB)


Attachments:
File comment: Wing nuts
06 Finished Dec 18 (1024x768).jpg
06 Finished Dec 18 (1024x768).jpg [ 499.4 KiB | Viewed 190 times ]
File comment: Finished side view
01 Finished Dec 18 (1024x768).jpg
01 Finished Dec 18 (1024x768).jpg [ 344.72 KiB | Viewed 190 times ]
File comment: Driver's view
03 Finished Dec 18 (1024x768).jpg
03 Finished Dec 18 (1024x768).jpg [ 334.88 KiB | Viewed 190 times ]
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2018 9:56 am 
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
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Joined: Mon Feb 11, 2008 12:03 pm
Posts: 6384
Location: held captive by baby haggis in a cave in Scotland
That is a great usable and also a great riding restoration I believe.
I've really enjoyed following this as it turned something that was clearly someones pride and joy but allowed to get a bit run down over time back into your lovely machine. While you have kept it standard or there abouts, you have also made it yours by the effort of doing so.
Great work and a great looking result.

Jamie


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2018 12:07 am 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Mon Nov 20, 2006 10:12 pm
Posts: 4882
Location: Barry
You've done a great job, thanks for sharing all the pics.


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2018 10:41 pm 
Old School Hero

Joined: Tue Dec 30, 2014 9:43 am
Posts: 157
Location: Adelaide, Australia
an enjoyable read, very respectful to the bike.
Did you use the Fibrax Raincheater pads?

If you need for a bit of comfort, I have the (reproduction) Shockstop 'honking' rubbers that fit those levers.
I have the mould made for reproducing the Shockstop handlebar end plugs, so they too could be considered for this project.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2018 6:16 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Fri Jun 15, 2018 9:36 pm
Posts: 33
Location: Edinburgh
Thank you, all, for your feedback. That’s much appreciated.
Thank you also Big Block for the steer and offer on Shockstop. Your message stirred a long memory, see pic what I found lurking in the garage drawer. There’s a scrap yard, Burns, just outside Edinburgh, where you used to be able to buy 2nd hand (house clearance) bikes for £5 a pot, think these came from there … about 25 years ago!! Those were the days. :?
Thought I’d go for replacement Fibrax blocks since that’s what’s on the bike at the moment – see pic – although I don’t know what the 269 stands for.

Having caught the refurbishment bug, and with spring just around the corner (ha!), think I’ll source another baby-boomer bike (1945 – 1965), and tackle another project, for next year.
My long-suffering Cannondale MTB has been put into action for the winter, however come March 2019 I’ll put down some real miles on the Super Lenton, and acquaint myself for the first time with this hub gear/derailleur combo, which I'm looking forward to. Roll on 2019! :)


Attachments:
File comment: Shock Stop
Bar end1.jpg
Bar end1.jpg [ 263.23 KiB | Viewed 106 times ]
File comment: Fibrax 269
Brake block.jpg
Brake block.jpg [ 275.42 KiB | Viewed 106 times ]
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2018 8:39 pm 
Old School Hero

Joined: Tue Dec 30, 2014 9:43 am
Posts: 157
Location: Adelaide, Australia
Fibrax 269 pads were promoted as "Specially made for use with alloy rims. This new material has been specially produced to save alloy rims from excessive wear and is confidently offered after long periods of testing in the laboratory and on the road." see Brown Brothers 1952 catalogue p17

With those end plugs, it is time to start planning on the next project. I tend to concentrate on the late 1940s and early 1950s. I like the different approaches taken. One theme has been to show how each company approached gears: Osgear, Simplex TDF, Campagnolo Grand Sport, Cyclo Benelux and Sturmey Archer ASC. It does require a bit of thought for the first km of each ride.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2018 10:05 am 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Fri Jun 15, 2018 9:36 pm
Posts: 33
Location: Edinburgh
Thanks again for the info Big Block. Looks like a bit of a mis-match on my bike then:- Fibrax 269 on steel rim !!
As for next year's project, fraid my knowledge on the custom builders is a bit scant, so I'll probably go for something fairly mainstream, with a Reynolds frame. Names I remember and which I'll probably look out for:- Dawes, Raleigh, Rudge, Claude Butler, BSA, Hercules, Sun. Much depends on what's available locally, or on the big web ......
Neil.


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2018 7:33 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Mon Sep 08, 2008 11:48 am
Posts: 1158
Location: Cheshire
Wow - that's a great looking bike and brings back memories!

I rode to school on one of these in the 70's, bought from a club mate at the time. i don't think anything on it was original (except maybe the cranks/BB) but I got many a mile in on it, set up fixed, including long hostelling weekends in the peaks.

It dies a death in the end, when the chainstays snapped (both sides) as they'd rusted through from the inside...so it went to the tip....in about 1981!

So yours has done a great job surviving all these years - I guess I must have abused mine too much!


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2018 5:37 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Fri Jun 15, 2018 9:36 pm
Posts: 33
Location: Edinburgh
Hey velocipede you used it, that’s the main thing - and thanks for the memories.
I’ve never seen it but guess it’s always a risk, steel frames are strong but there’s the chance of tubes rusting through from the inside. Don’t think my Super Lenton frame has succumbed to that, having been garaged all its life, although it’s had its fair share of paint scrapes.
Having said all that, when I had the bare frame (see pic), I took the precaution of filling all the tubes in turn with clean engine oil, then allowing it to drip through over a fortnight, in the height of the summer. Hope I did the right thing! :shock:


Attachments:
File comment: Bare frame & forks
Bare frame forks.jpg
Bare frame forks.jpg [ 385.07 KiB | Viewed 48 times ]
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