DISK BRAKES, brilliant aren't they
, both types are good, but I think HYDRAULIC DISK BRAKES
cost a bit much to buy afterwards, especially in comparison to CABLE PULL DISK BRAKES
, but if your bought MTB comes with hydraulic disk brakes GREAT, good for you, enjoy.
I like disk brakes, because they don't need toe-in (A practice were the front of the pad contacts the rim before the rear of the pad to prevent unwanted squealing), and disk brakes have far less fade from speed/heat, and especially without the annoying weather associated aquaplaning
(Conventional rim brakes become less useful when wet due to reduced friction).
~ CABLE PULL DISK BRAKES
(LOT CHEAPER then HYDRAULIC, slightly more friction then hydraulic brakes, bit less sophisticated then hydraulic also only one pad presses in together, when pulling lever, the other is fixed, but adjustable. You may think how does that work, isn't that a contradiction, NO IT ISN'T!)
NOTE: DESIGNS and adjustment differ from model to model.
~ HYDRAULIC DISK BRAKES
(MORE EXPENSIVE then CABLE PULL, but with less friction, also both pads press in together, guess most systems)
NOTE: DESIGNS and adjustment differ from model to model.
Of course HYDRAULIC DISK BRAKES look better and more credible as well.
PROs (advantages) of DISK BRAKES:
~ If tyre/rim gets wet, disk brake performance unaffected.
~ If rim gets buckled disk brake performance unaffected (Hence no unexpected brake/tyre rub, hence less unexpected tyre explosions!)
~ Less brake fade from speed.
~ Less friction/flex then previous historic brakes (No brakes bosses used hence much less flex).
~ Pad life long.
~ Tyre width not limited by brakes (Such as centre pull, side pull or cantilever, as cable or brake housing may rub on larger width tyres).
CONs (disadvantages) of DISK BRAKES:
~ To fit MTB must
have disk mounts on FRAME, FORK, BOTH HUBS, and
if you have COMBO gear & brake levers then you would have to buy separate GEAR SHIFTERS as well, but only IF you're changing to HYDRAULIC as the lever style in different on HYDRAULIC DISK BRAKES, but the same on CABLE PULL DISK BRAKES (So if upgrading to CABLE DISK BRAKES, you can keep your existing BRAKE LEVERS even if combination style).
~ Pad replacement can be fiddly.
~ Setup/adjustment may not be obvious without consulting instructions first.
~ Setup/adjustment even with instructions may be fiddly, and may need some tools (Specialist or not), such as funnel
for brake fluid top up (DOT5, etc), socket/spanner
for bleed valve, rubber tube
(Of correct diameter to be tight fit on bleed valve) and jar
to siphon brake fluid during bleeding process to eradicate air bubbles until all are gone (No longer visible).
~ If brake lever or caliper breaks, may
have to buy complete side (LEFT or RIGHT HAND SIDE lever/caliper again), to replace, as individual parts MAY not be available, or unable to separate as integrated.
REAR FRAME CALIPER MOUNTS:
NON DRIVE SIDE (I.E: LEFT HAND SIDE OF FRAME
HUB 6 BOLT DISK MOUNTS
NON DRIVE SIDE (I.E: LEFT HAND SIDE OF FORK
). NOTE some newer versions are threaded instead, known as ROTOR or similar:
CABLE ROUTING MOUNTS
(In the photo below of the NON DRIVE SIDE OF THE FRAME, on the:
~ L/H side of the photo is zip tie mounts for HYDRAULIC & on the
~ R/H side of the photo are CABLE OUTER END STOPS for CABLE PULL DISK BRAKE OUTERS.
These are ESSENTIAL for CABLE PULL DISK BRAKES, less important on HYDRAULIC DISK BRAKES as could just zip tie the cable outers to the frame/fork):
: The hydraulic outer cable is simply laid on top of the hydraulic routing bridge, then to hold the hydraulic cable outer in place, push a zip tie through the bridged crevice, then fasten zip tie around the hydraulic routing bridge and the hydraulic cable outer, then cut off the excess end of the zip tie neatly!
HYDRAULIC ROUTING & OUTER CABLE END STOP
BOTH (CABLE or HYDRAULIC DISK BRAKE) ARE MUCH BETTER THEN HISTORIC BRAKES
. THERE IS FAR LESS FLEX BECAUSE THE MOUNTS DON'T FLEX, BECAUSE previously the forces used were different, in cantilever brake versions the brakes are bolted to the FRAME BOSSES and FORK BOSSES (On MTB's, but ROAD BIKES, do NOT have FRAME/FORK BOSSES, are they have very narrow tyres and buckled rims are far less likely, so clearances can be very close).
BRAKE "BOSS" MOUNTS on FRAME and FORKS
(NOTE: ALL QUALITY FRAMES & FORKS, also have DISK MOUNTS)
HISTORY OF BRAKES
(STILL VERY GOOD IN SETUP & USE, but can flex at brake bosses in frame/forks)
(NOT AS POWERFUL AS V BRAKE, and REGULAR SETUP FIDDLY on some models, flex at brake bosses in frame/forks)
Glad to have binned my old DIA-COMP's
, my Cannondale M700
, had them with power pulleys, oh my word, what a load of rubbish, those were replaced with DEORE V's, which were great).
BRAKE BRACE for FRONT or REAR boss mounted brakes
to prevent/reduce flex of bosses moving in & out when pulling/releasing brake. Recent frames/forks (Year 2000+) are much more rigid then years ago.
HYDRAULIC RIM BRAKES
(People who had these were keen on them, but design limits the tyre width you can have. Also I remember some riders bust some rims as the brakes wore down the rim wall, until the rim snapped from the outer edge. Also flex at brake bosses in frame/forks, but quality hydraulic rim
brakes have a BRACE to reduce flex, like these pictured below.)
(POOR PERFORMANCE on cheapest designs, quality designs still the standard on road bikes, as road bikes have very narrow tyres, hence tyres won't interfere with brake housing, and on the cheapest mountain bikes since brake is on larger scale there is more flex and friction. The balance tension adjustment is either crudely but effective just bolting in the centre, and/or allen key adjustment to balance by tension, but these become seized
easily even on road bikes that doesn't get dirty often, and the small balance tension adjuster allen key bolt "rounds off", probably because the allen key bolts are very small, approx 2mm or 3mm. ALSO side pull brakes are mounted differently, ROAD BIKES do NOT have BRAKE BOSSES welded to FRAMES or FORKS, instead the brakes are mounted with an integrated long bolt in the centre of the side pull brakes, through the centre of the FRONT FORK, and the rear brakes is mounted in the rear of the BIKE FRAME, centre of horizontal bridge between the seat stays).
(POOR PERFORMANCE on cheapest designs. The balance tension adjustment is either crudely but effective just bolting in the centre, and/or allen key adjustment to balance by tension, but these become seized
easily even on road bikes that doesn't get dirty often, and the small balance tension adjuster allen key bolt "rounds off", probably because the allen key bolts are very small, approx 2mm or 3mm.)
REAR U BRAKE on EARLY GT's
Good, but heavier, more friction and flex then V-Brakes. Mounted on rear frame brake bosses which also flex, but since u brake is quite robust, flex is minimal.
ALSO ALL OF THESE CABLE PULL BRAKES aren't helped by really naff BRAKE LEVERS either, plastic flexes alot, alloy brakes levers are alot better:
PLASTIC BRAKE LEVERS