Has anyone restored a Raleigh SBDU with decals from H.Llyod?

I have a question about a couple of the decals from Nick at H. Lloyd, but he's on holiday so was wondering if anyone has any experience restoring one.

My frame is at Bob Jackson & I received a phone call this morning about the Tour De France winners 78/79 silver transfer that goes at the top of the down tube, and the Special Divisions transfers that go on the chain stays.

Basically, they're worried that, because the transfers are quite thick, when they're applied under the final clear coat they will straighten when the heat is applied. My options are 1) go ahead and apply them under the clear coat and hops that they stay flat at 200 degress (they are thinking that it shouldn't happen, but wanted to check with me first), and 2) applying these transfers on the top of the clear coat afterwards, which is obviously not ideal.

I was just wondering if anybody has had a frame with these transfers re-sprayed & if they had any problem. It would be good to know if they're gonna stay flat under the heat without worrying.

Hope someone can help.

Thanks,..

Interesting. Mine is currently having the same treatment but at Mercian with Decals from H Lloyd, so I would also like to know.
My SBDU track frame is 100% original. The Ilkeston oval stickers (World Champ stripes on foil sticker) are not underneath any clear coat. They have been on the frame for over 28 years and are/were in A1 condition.
NOTE:
If you download the pdf list from the H Lloyd website there is a code system in place for each decal which explains what kind of application is required for each decal type and also if you can clear-coat them. Might be worth looking - sorry I cannot check at the mo, might be able to later tonight.

99% SURE THAT NOT ALL OF HIS DECALS CAN BE CLEAR COATED

Interested to see the results of spray and decals. Have a SBDU frame ready to get sprayed.

Ahhhh.... I remeber seeing your Ti Track. So, you went for Mercian then? Will be interesting to compare the finish on our frames.

So, the codes are:

W = waterslide
D = "dryfix"
V = Varnish fix
P = Plastic (self-adhesive)
L = Laser-cut
S = Self-adhesive
H = hand finished
C = cut and printed

What am I looking for here to see which ones can be clear-coated & which ones can't? Dryfix?

Actually, scrap that - think i've found the info:

http://www.hlloydcycles.com/page9.htm

wblenkin":1lmokbz8 said:

Ahhhh.... I remeber seeing your Ti Track. So, you went for Mercian then? Will be interesting to compare the finish on our frames.

So, the codes are:

W = waterslide
D = "dryfix"
V = Varnish fix
P = Plastic (self-adhesive)
L = Laser-cut
S = Self-adhesive
H = hand finished
C = cut and printed

What am I looking for here to see which ones can be clear-coated & which ones can't? Dryfix?

Click to expand...

Yep went for Mercian, not 100% happy with the yellow as a match (its a little too bright) but I went for it. But yes it will be great to compare the two.
Re the codes..Sorry I was working from memory - would varnish fix be the one? I assume that the foil (metallic) backed decals are printed vinyls and therefore are self adhesive but this doesn't help with the clear coat issue. Sorry!
If it was me I would probably wait until Nick is back from holiday, that is unless someone else here has the knowledge.

wblenkin":1iqm2iqn said:

Actually, scrap that - think i've found the info:

http://www.hlloydcycles.com/page9.htm

Click to expand...

Great. Will have a look myself - good luck.

Hey man, yeah I didn't have much choice in terms of colours. It was Post Office red or Ferrari red, I went for Post Office as apparently it's very close to the original red (someone helped on here). Then for the yellow Nick recommended matching to the yellow on the decals, which I did, but a reply something along the lines of 'we just have yellow, unless you want to pay £200 for a special mix'. So I imagine it's gonna be more bright than custardy (which is the opposite of what Nick recommended, more custardy than bright), but you just have to go for whatever they have really.

It's pretty cheap really so if it looks good i'm gonna be very happy. I'm paying £90 for the red, £20 for the black head tube & £35 for the yellow panel I think (+£10 for applying the decals & £30 for the decals from Nick).

So it'll come in under £200 altogether. Which is just short of what the frame cost me!! Crazy. How much has yours ended up costing?

Pointer":1msd8zdv said:

wblenkin":1msd8zdv said:

Actually, scrap that - think i've found the info:

http://www.hlloydcycles.com/page9.htm

Click to expand...

Great. Will have a look myself - good luck.

Click to expand...

Just checked and they're all "C", which is the same process as 'V" but it says they MUST be clear-coated.

So there's the answer. All the decals must be clear-coated, it's to prevent the ink from deteriorating apparently.

RESULT.

can't help you with the transfers question, many years back but I got my team colours repainted at Argos, did a fantastic job with colours. I would love to get it done again to bring it back to former glory for a second time, but the quote I got frightened me off!