1995 Independent Fabrication Steel Deluxe Re-visited.

Harryburgundy

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There have been a few subtle changes over the past few months...and as I am quite bored I thought I would share them with you.
Really need a decent camera as just can't get a decent full-bike picture.
Ah well...use your imagination.

Spec list:-

Frame: 1995 Steel Deluxe #25 in Carbon Metallic
Fork: IF as above

Headset:Mango Chris King
Stem:Black ControlTech
Handlebar:X-Lite XLR Pro Titanium
Grips:Oury Lock-On


Brakes:Avid Ultimate Black Ops V Brakes
Brake Pads: Green Kool-Stop
Brake Cables: XTR
Brake Levers: Avid Ultimate Black Ops

Shifter: M970 XTR
Front Chain Guide: Paul Components Chain Keeper
Rear Derailleur: M952 XTR
Derailleur Cables: XTR
Cassette: Sram 970DH 11-26
Chain: KMC X9 Light
Cranks: Middleburn RS8
Crank Bolts: Middleburn Self-extracting
Chainrings: Middleburn 38T Uno
Bottom Bracket: UN91 XTR
Pedals: XTR Mcan't remember

Hub Skewers: Black Salsa
Rims:Mavic S.U.P Ceramic 117
Hubs: Gold Middleburn
Tyres: 'Blue-wall' Ritchey WCS Speedmax

Saddle: Black Selle Italia Ti Flite Gel
Seatpost: Jim Kish Ti with black Thomson clamp
Seatpost Binder: Green Salsa Lip-Lock

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Nice. How you finding those brakes? Reason I ask is that I have a NOS pair of those levers in my spares box & was thinking about buying a F & R set of those 'Black Ops V's to go with 'em.
 
Very cool. :cool: I especially like that nice black colour and those forks. They look to give a responsive and comfortable ride, no?
 
Ah...the brakes are very nice...powerful of course but take a bit of setting up. They say no toe-in, but I have to add plenty of toe-in to stop the squeel.
I'm not entirely convinced they are worth the money..similar performance can be had from far cheaper V's.

The forks are nice...I do wonder if they flex a bit too much as I cannot dial-out judder with the brakes as above.
 
Maybe odd question but why do you need the chain keeper? In what position would it be likely to throw off?

I like the cleaner lines of 1x so was looking at options.

tia
 
Looking super sweet dude.. ;)

I have one of these on the list somewhere,,:) ........

Whats the weight of the frame carl ? ,is it full 853... ? any idea,out of interest.. ?


The only thing I would change really is the colour of the seat clamp.. ;) :) ,,,,,, oh! ..............and those horrible blue ritchey tyres :roll: :roll: ... give em to me and I'll dispose of them for you.. ;) :LOL: :LOL:
 
Maybe odd question but why do you need the chain keeper? In what position would it be likely to throw off?

It's probably belt and braces, I should imagine that 99% of the time it doesn't do anything...but I'm not about to risk the 1% throw off.

Thanks Si
I don't know the weight, but it's not superlight. It's just fine and it rides light which is the real weight in my humble opinion.
The tyres are very 'new trainer' at the moment :) I replaced them today (like for like..just the others were worn) and these are bright at the moment.
853 wasn't around at the time I believe...here's the word on the street regarding tube material

From a member of the FatCogs forum:

"True Temper was the only tubing 95 IFs were built out of. IIRC 853 wasn't even available yet. The rumor at the time was that the IF boys used the same tubes the Yo was built with. Story was that Fat split town and left an outstanding order or something with True Temper for tubes and the IF boys went ahead and bought those tubes. Could have been myth building at the time since they were all pretty bitter about the whole Fat situation and were trying to vilify Chris and Wendyl. The idea that Fat pulled a midnight run and left material behind has been disabused by i-robot, but the idea that they left an order hanging with TT is believable.

So, basically the early IFs were True Temper, same geo as a Yo Eddy, Ritchey dropouts and downtube cable routing for the derailleurs. My understanding was that downtube routing was used to make it more obvious the frame wasn't a copy of a Yo.
 
Front mech

You deffo need a chain keeper with a long cage rear mech and single ring set up, you would spend as long putting the chain back on as riding, normally the front mech keeps the chain on and particularly in the middle ring the big ring. Unless you just ride on the road ;)

On the brake squeel front, it's the pad material that creates the squeel, I found 90 percent of ceramic pads squeel, found that Koolstop ceramic work the best and quietest, runnung a set of standard pads on the rims (which won't last long) also seems to bed the rims in better.
 
On the brake squeel front, it's the pad material that creates the squeel, I found 90 percent of ceramic pads squeel, found that Koolstop ceramic work the best and quietest, runnung a set of standard pads on the rims (which won't last long) also seems to bed the rims in better.

That's different to my findings...I guess its a combo. I find dialling out squeel requires pad alignment adjustment. I think these brakes require no -toe-in due to their cartridge bearings...but I find I have to put quite some toe-in to reduce/eliminate squeel.
I too use Kool-Stop ceramic pads but have plenty of spare 'standard' red pads so I might pop them in to see what they are like.
 
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