New groupset on retro frame?

Hi people

I have decided i want to get back to a steel frame, i have had a couple of Aluminium frames and i ride a carbon one at the moment.

I realy miss the feel of a steel frame, i got an old peugeout last year and its a 10 speed friction shift job and great fun, but i would prefer to get my record groupo onto a new frame

However what i want to know (and i hope i dont cause the purists to faint/throw up/have an embolism) can i take my Campag Record 10 speed groupset and use it on a decent frame form the 80s

I here about rear dropout spacing being an issue sometimes and also wheel size

Thanks in advance

Pirate

As long as the frame has 130 rear spacing, Allen Key brake mounts and takes a 700c wheel, you should be fine

fingers":1kh1wgaa said:

As long as the frame has 130 rear spacing, Allen Key brake mounts and takes a 700c wheel, you should be fine

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Approx when did 700c wheels come into play? any ideas?

pirate":2uqix7oz said:

fingers":2uqix7oz said:

As long as the frame has 130 rear spacing, Allen Key brake mounts and takes a 700c wheel, you should be fine

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Approx when did 700c wheels come into play? any ideas?

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My mate had some in 1977 so around about then I reckon. Michelin Elan tyres I think.

I have a 1973 Allin that was build for 700's, but its the spacing that will be important to you, the 130mm gap is associated with the end of friction gearing, so that puts you firmly in the 1980's.

you can use dual pivots brakes if your frame doesn't have recesses for the modern type nuts if you are prepared to use two front brakes, drill out the rear hole on the fork crown for the front, and use a nut on the rear brake instead of the recessed nut... I got dual pivots on my '80s Raleigh using this method

Groupset

I am in same situation, thinking of putting 11 speed Athena on or waiting for the new 2011 silver Veloce groupset.

OldTel":2sluzyfi said:

I have a 1973 Allin that was build for 700's, but its the spacing that will be important to you, the 130mm gap is associated with the end of friction gearing, so that puts you firmly in the 1980's.

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Not true, 130mm is current road standard (8/9/10 speed) and (older) 7 speed MTB. Most steel frames with 126mm drop-out will accommodate a 130mm rear wheel anyway, and it's quite easy to respace a 130mm rear wheel down to 126mm by removing 4mm of spacers, rearranging what's left and re-dishing the rim (for example in an older aluminium road frame).

Last year I helped my mate to build up his newly-repainted 1971 Flying Scot with 10 speed 105 kit and a pair of Cane Creek wheels. He had owned the bike since about 1978, but the old equipment was very worn (Stronglight, Simplex, Universal etc. etc.) The issue with the allen bolt brakes was quickly resolved with a large drill bit (9mm I seem to remember), and the rear wheel spacing was a simple matter of "springing" the rear stays a wee bit. We did consider cold setting them, but thought that too risky.
He now road races on this machine to great effect, and preferrs it to his plastic-fantastic Scott CR1.

Bigfish":1lea0xn0 said:

The issue with the allen bolt brakes was quickly resolved with a large drill bit (9mm I seem to remember).

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I had a similar issue with the front fork of a Webster cromoly training frame of much more recent years; couple of minutes work with a Black & Decker did the trick.
As for modern groupsets on old frames, plenty of advantages to be had braking- and transmission-wise. My Look has semi-retro equipment (running 16sp with Mavic 840 rear derailleur) but couldn't manage without Ergo levers or modern dual-pivot brakes. Toying with a switch to the new Campag "skeleton" brakes when I get it resprayed - apparently performance of these is good as well as the fact that they look smart!

David