P7, an evolution.

My P7 has been a faithful frame, with been quite attached to it after 12 years and throwing it around the hard tracks of Namibia. I am slowly adapting the frame to a tourer as looking for new not so frenzied adventures.

The LBS has been pushing me to get a pre-set up tourer but I will resist the dark side and stay true to my P7. Its far more fun than just buying a ready made up bike. The original parts were changed about 7 years ago so the frame and hot rod bar are the only original bits of gucci! kit.

The set up at present is Sram x9 grip shifters and rear mech, front Shimano XT with a Mar.Bomber fork and Magura brakes. The fork has given up the ghost and considering the bike is also my commute to work with some leg burning hills, it has to go. The headset now been a 1” threadless, I have now opted for the Kona P2, on order. The rear & front mechs are on their last legs, so new X7 to replace. At present have a top swing front mech, would a conventional be a better swap? Brakes to stay as work extremely well. Have briefly tried the Ergon bar grips and have to say, the way forward. Wheels will be upgraded to Mavic XC717 rims and DT spokes 2mm x 36. Continental Top Contact tyres are excellent and nearly new, so will also stay. Front rack will be applied with Ortlieb panniers too. Yet to decide whether to go down the full mudguard route? might be a bit to drastic for me!

Just need somehow to remove the old lacquer and polish up as very keen to keep the nickel look, any advice please?

Any other ideas out there, more than welcome to add. Will keep updated with work in progress.

Nigel

very nice. i've got the same frame with a similar problem. from what info i can gleam,

a nickel paint job is not available anymore(not with bj or argos) cos its a toxic process/difficult to do?

paint stripper can really mess up the finish of these nickel frames-especially nitromors

if you dont have anyrust good results can be had with some polish and elbow grease but if the lacquers coming of thats a bit more tricky.

i have 1 very small rust spot-minor surface rust which i plan to sand off then treat and leave alone.

I love riding my P7 and part of me thinks just get it properly resprayed an it'll last for ages, BUT the nickel paint job and orange stickers is such a classic look i cant bear to respray it!

hopefully 1 of the experts will chip in with some advice soon.

Yep, the Nickel I would very much like to keep with very few little rust spots as has been in a dry climate for 8 years. Just need to remove remaining lacquer that has not stood the test of time.

So hoping someone might come up with a suggestion.

In my experience with gripshift, I'd keep the top swing front mech. They shift as well as regular mechs but have weaker springs. This makes the action much lighter for the grip shifter, which is handy when it is wet/dirty.
Just my 2 cents.

I have 2 of these... Best bikes ever

Good feedback on the front mech, makes sense and did wonder why LBS all those years ago had fitted a top swing, they knew their stuff also.

Have been also looking at perhaps a 21" frame P7 for touring as on another forum (CTC) it was mentioned that perhaps to much seat was showing? I have a 32" inside leg and at 5' 11.5" tall. I have day trips recently of 60 miles plus and except for the seat area aching a bit! have had no worries at all. So am tempted to stay with the 19"??

Also am purchasing a Cannondale Bad Boy through the Cycle to Work Scheme for the commute. Have ordered a large which I now gather is also 19", perhaps again the X large 21" might be more appropriate.

2 cents please!?

Nigel

cant help with the p7 questions , but i would stick with the large for the cannondale .... im 6' 1"and my f 1000 in large has bin fine for me for the last 12 years !! you may fimd that the x large is a bit of a stretch.. imop

Godders,

Thanks for that. Have certainly not been uncomfortable on the 19" and dont feel squashed over the 12 years too.

Nigel