NEW! RetroBike Tip of the Month!!!

Here's a tip request:

how to remove cranks where the threads that you put your crank extractor into have been err.. threaded without having to resort to hacksawing them off :evil:
 
orange71":1g5wi3gx said:
Here's a tip request:

how to remove cranks where the threads that you put your crank extractor into have been err.. threaded without having to resort to hacksawing them off :evil:

you need a "puller". nasty looking thing basically has prongs that hook around the crank arm & you tighten it down & extract in much the same way as a normal crank extractor. if you dont need the crank arm, then a big feck off hammer :LOL:
 
To get your bar-ends at the right angle (and not look like a special needs bike), get a broom handle and place one end on your rear tyre the other on the end of your bars, and set the bar-ends to the angle of the broom handle. This also takes the guess work out of getting both bar-ends the same angle.
 
Another Tip that I will share with you all:

I discovered this yesterday:

If you've been playing with your chain and your hands are really dirty and oily, the best thing to do is not to go and sit on the new white leather sofa.

:D
 
jez-2-many-bikes":gxkrrc8u said:
These are good tips. :D

I like the criss cross cable one if it really does protect paintwork.

This works for down tube routed gear cables too. My bike was setup like this from Evans, I've always left it like it, and never had any cable rub issues from the outer cable to the headtube. Though there is a slight marking to the underside of the downtube where the cables cross, but with cables installed you can't tell anyway...
 
orange71":38zeksje said:
Here's a tip request:

how to remove cranks where the threads that you put your crank extractor into have been err.. threaded without having to resort to hacksawing them off :evil:

Undo the crank bolt a few turns so that it is only hand tight. Then ride around the block a few times. The crank will work off the tapers and providing you are sensible about it and don't honk up a 1 in 3 the tapers will not be damaged either!
 
LQQK":k49kfns5 said:
To get your bar-ends at the right angle (and not look like a special needs bike), get a broom handle and place one end on your rear tyre the other on the end of your bars, and set the bar-ends to the angle of the broom handle. This also takes the guess work out of getting both bar-ends the same angle.

If you do this before you put the whole bar shebang on the bike I fit all the stuff on the kitchen table. Then by turning it upside down it is easy to see!
 
We use a ball joint sepertaor, a long two toothed pointed tool you hit with a hammer - can damage the bb - but cheaper than replacing the cranks.
 
Creaky saddle/seatpost clamp?

Wrap a single layer of clingfilm round the saddle rail or any offending interfacing bits before you put your seatpost clamp together, et voila. You can cut / peel away any unsightly surplus clingfilm. Worked for me for years when I had problems with my USE post creaking.
 
Stick Legs":2obmhsce said:
orange71":2obmhsce said:
Here's a tip request:

how to remove cranks where the threads that you put your crank extractor into have been err.. threaded without having to resort to hacksawing them off :evil:

Undo the crank bolt a few turns so that it is only hand tight. Then ride around the block a few times. The crank will work off the tapers and providing you are sensible about it and don't honk up a 1 in 3 the tapers will not be damaged either!


i had a crank once that lasted 3 weeks of my daily commute with the bolts out and wouldnt move a nano-metre.
 
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