tire width - educate a fool.

I would vote for a Mavic Module E with the Mavic red only label. According to Velobase, this was in production 1975 onwards, but certainly I have seen these on late seventies/early Eighties Peugeots. A polished NOS Module E clincher rim - yes please! Time for you to get the Ebay googles on :shock:

On my '85 Merckx I was looking for Mavic MA2's, but these are pricey, but ended up with some polished Mavic 190FB's on DA 7400 hubs - very nice too.

As for sizing, again my retro Guru is the best place to start:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tyre-sizing.html

And for a general article on tyres:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tyres.html

For anyone that hasn't come across Sheldon, he passed away in 2008 (check Wikipedia out) but you can spend a lot of time exploring his website - its packed with Retro info.
 
As far as getting a flat on tubulars you should never be getting flats on tubulars. Use some sealant when you install your tire in the first place and if you ever do manage to get a puncture the sealant will instantly plug the hole. You loose a few pounds of pressure but that's nothing a good pump wont solve. Tubular tires are great, the reason they're thought of as faster is that they have much higher pressure ratings you can pump the good ones up to 140-160lbs making a much harder tire resulting in much less friction on the road thus a faster ride. This is a negligible difference if your not really racing hard (where a tenth of a second counts) or on an indoor track (very prevalent on wooden indoor tracks). But the sealant is really awesome, you can use Stans No-Tubes conversion kit and get a similar effect on most regular clincher rims but its no substitution for the real deal.

Heres a video of stans working its magic
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_BsT8D9JYY
 

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