1999 Kona Cindercone Stealthy Singlespeed

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Retro Wizard
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Here's my fettled singlespeed Cindercone.

I built up the bike a year ago to have a go at singlespeeding and see what the fuss was about - the frame was horribly scratched but cheap from ebay. I know the purists will shudder...an Alu Cindercone :shock:

Anyway, I enjoyed riding it so much i decided to smarten it up. I'm not big on originality, bling parts or extrovert paint jobs, and I want to avoid the smug singlespeeder thing. It's more a "walk softly and carry a big stick" kind of understated bike.

I put on a simple 1994 Kona name and head badge, as I loathe the later jungle style ones.

I don't much go for trick parts, the stuff I've got is strong, lightish and reliable...the whole bike is somewhere between 21 and 22lb

1999 Kona Cindercone, P2 forks
Hope Headset
Thomson seatpost (I bent the cheap Selcof one)
San Marco Bontrager Ti saddle
Raceface Prodigy Stem
Bontrager bars, Ritchey grips
Cane Creek ergo bar-ends (brilliant things)
Sugino Impel Cranks (somehow Konas need to have Suginos, and I can't stand 4-arm cranks)
Deore V brakes, Avid 5.0 levers (can't see the point of pricier ones)
Ashima replaceable pads
Hope Ti hubs (screw-on rear with 16T Shimano BMX freewheel)
Mavic 319 rear and 519 front, Panaracer Fire XC Pro 1.8 tyres
Hope blue ano skewers and seat clamp (sole concession to bling)
:D
 

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cdertainly stealthy. cant say i'd like to go back to rigid alu but i bet shes fast
 
how is the chainline with a bmx freewheel on a screw-on block hub ?

I was considering doing the same thing but not sure how it would line up.. any chance of a pick?
 
The paint is a powdercoat. I went to my local powdercoater and asked him to run it through when he was doing anything grey. Some gates were being done...
It's a lot of hassle for powdercoaters to set up a special colour, so it really keeps costs down if they coat one extra in a larger job. I used Ferndown Powder coaters near Bournemouth.

As for chainline, I built the wheel up with reverse dish, so I swapped the axle spacers from the left and right and reversed the axle. This moves the threaded part ourwards 7mm or so. If you don't do this you will be in trouble with chainline.
I run a 110mm Shimano UN72 bottom bracket. For a perfect chainline then it ought to really have the chainring on the inside face of the crank, but the outside one works fine and I haven't had a problem with unshipping the chain.
 
Gazz...you could be right - I think the white one echoes the lettering nicely. But I'm in two minds so I've a grey syncros one on the way to add to the invisibility...

Just got to find radar-absorbing powdercoat now :D
 
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