Disk mount adapters for non-disk frame. (DIY)

Re: Disk mount adapters for no-disk frame.

letmetalktomark":rzggrkkz said:

Andy R":rzggrkkz said:

I'll really miss it while I'm in Greece for the next seven weeks :cry:

Click to expand...

The tribulations one must put up with whilst somewhere warm

How is the big front wheel thing working out?

Click to expand...

Yeah - I know. It's a hard life but someone has to do it....... :roll:

The big front wheel is a great success - lots of advantages, it really does roll over roots and rocks better than the 26" wheel and the whole bike is agile and nimble in tight, techy going and yet really confident and stable at speed.
Disadvantages ? I haven't found any yet.

I did think about getting a Singular Hummingbird frame but, not having ridden one, I can't see what it possibly can do better than what I have.

cce":1v5n9arx said:

old konas are really prone to snapping at the dropout....

therefore, i wouldnt.

Click to expand...

If you study a typical retro-fitted caliper mount and chainstay/seatstay brace wouldn't you say that if anything, it actually makes the whole chainstay/seatstay/dropout junction stronger?

All this doesn't do anything for the drive side, of course, but if it's going to break, it's going to break.....
Not worth worrying about IMHO .

Nice to see some close ups of Argos work as I'm thinking of using them

How much do they charge just for the tabs & guides?

Neil G":1cnsijfb said:

How much do they charge just for the tabs & guides?

Click to expand...

PM'd you

Adapters

http://2btherapy.com/

Check out the above link , but be warned only use it for ideas matey . I bought one of these kits and the torque tube snapped killing the rear end of a very special and unique Rock Lobster . This happened in Whinlatter Forest on a steep decent , a tree stopped me from going over the edge of a banking .

The principle behind the kit is a sound one , you dont need to modify any part of ya frame at all , the kit is just poorly made .

I was also promised a full refund by these people , as waved the repair costs to my bike .
That was two weeks ago , i'm still waiting for my money .........................

Thanks Andy for the schematic.

I hope to be running hope ti hubs with the splined disk mounts and the rear brake I hope to get is for 140mm disk so I might have to tweak the positioning to get the caliper aligned with the rotor.

Im not very clued up with welding though. Is it just a solder and blowtorch job? This is why I was considering a bolt on adapter.

Thanks everyone else for the suggestions and opinions.

I think you may struggle with a bolt on and a 140mm rotor but thes is just my thoughts

The rear disk is 160 I think and the caliper is for a 140 disk. Thats the advantage of making my own, I can get it ligned up just right.

Andy R,

Tell me more about how you welded/soldered you custom mounts on please?

Ive had a quick play in the garage with the hand tools just to see how this might shape up. I already have some 6mm alu which is handy, but if I did the brazed version I would use steel instead. I don't think ally can be soldered to steel. This is just a 'mock-up' so its not profiled for the caliper nor is it long enough.

It seems straight in relation to the dropout. I used the edge of a steel ruler to check and I reckon its spot on. I cant do the real thing yet as I dont have the wheels and brakes. But It looks like the diy bolt on mount might be strong enough once its clamped onto the seatstay. The seatstay clamping area will be some kind of half calmp that fits the diameter of the stays and has 2 bolts to clamp it to the seatstay.



Opinions please.


EDIT: Spot the mistake?

It dosent look straight in this pic but believe me it is.



Wish I had a milling machine....