1995 Boulder Starship - FINISHED Page 4 - Picture Heavy

That eyelet for the hydraulic line is a nice touch, looks better than the black zip-tie I use.
 
Thats a brilliant looking shock system :cool:
You think you've seen it all then someone on retrobike suprises you
And well done on the pro levers :cool: ,thats one job i dont envy you :LOL: :LOL:
 
LQQK":2gjyqitw said:
That eyelet for the hydraulic line is a nice touch, looks better than the black zip-tie I use.

I'm now thinking about drilling out the two cable bosses on the top tube that I do not use anymore and routing the hydraulic line that way. Still that seams like a major challenge that I am not sure I am up to yet.

One thing that would make it easier was that the prior hose was a 6mm and was a tight fit in the cable boss. The new hose I got is the newer 5mm so that would make drilling out the cable guide a bit easier. still...
 
Just an update. I'm in the process of cleaning up the frame. I figure it will take me a couple of weeks to do it properly which is a sh!t as the weather has finally improved here and I want to get our and ride and my bike is still in bits.... :cry:

I have been rubbing with TurtleWax Rubbing Compound. I was scared as I thought I had taken off too much of the clear coat with this as it left a lot of scratches and a very dull finish.

Tonight, I tested with TurtleWax Premium Grade Polishing Compound and then applied ICE TurtleWax Paste Polish and also ICE TurtleWax Spray Detailer. I did not wax for this test. The shine came back up, but not quite the mirror gloss I was after.

I could still see too many scratches from the rubbing compound. I've decided that I need an intermediate stage between the basic (hard) rubbing compound and the Polishing Compound. Tomorrow I will pick up some of the TurtleWax Premium Grade Polishing Compound which is a medium cut and this should help me rub out the course scratch marks from the hard rubbing compound.

I have also been working the bike more with the hard rubbing compound. I am finding that my technique is improving and I am removing the majority of the rubbing marks from my first try. Now when I work it with the medium cut, then polish/detailer, then wax and believe I will get the finish I am looking for.

Wish me luck!
 
Good! The the better rubbing compound is bringing back the shine. I also got some automotive touch up paint, however I could not next an exact match - but it helped.

It seems as if my paint is a lighter blue metallic over a black base coat giving a very dark royal blue finish. One thing I can say about Boulder is that they applied a very tough paint coat, and probably a good 1 mm of clear coat on the bike.

I seemed to remember Boulder getting some renown in the the early 90's for their flame paint jobs....
 
The frame is now shiny!

The the combination of two grades of rubbing compound, polishing compound, and polish has really brought the frame back to life. It still needs a protective coat of wax or two, but for now I thought I would show progress wth new shiny photos!

Some of the shots are comparable to the earlier scuffed shots and you will definitely agree that frame looks way better. Couldn't do anything about the flaked off paint as I have not found any color match - I would have to strip and redo the who bike. Not up to that for now.
 

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More photos
 

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And now the rear triangle. This is a lot more battered - even though it now shiny, I can't hide the fact that the mud and gloop on The Chilterns has stripped a lot of paint. Then there's the damage from chain suck, chain slap, and the wheel axle...

I'm wondering what the bike would look like with a stripped and polished rear triangle with the dark blue front end....? Well its not something I am going to try now.
 

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I reassembled the frame tonight and gave it a second polish and a coat of wax. I would say the frame is done.

I discovered that the swingarm bearing is on its last legs. It is tight for now with no slop in the rear but only just. Next time it is serviced I am going to need new bearings and a pivot bolt. As Boulder Bikes do not appear to respond to their email address anymore, does anyone know where I can get a new bearing?

I also stripped down the front disk now, and I have started overhauling the Pace RC36 Evo II forks. That was a surprise. I have a split bottom out elastomer and a rusted up circlip inside the forks. Guess I have some new parts to order......
 
kerryn":2tme40o8 said:
I discovered that the swingarm bearing is on its last legs. It is tight for now with no slop in the rear but only just. Next time it is serviced I am going to need new bearings and a pivot bolt. As Boulder Bikes do not appear to respond to their email address anymore, does anyone know where I can get a new bearing?

Just out of interest, does the swingarm have bearings? I thought there were just bushings?

You could always contact the shop I’ve bought 2 Boulders from, they sold a few back in the day (they are in Chicago, so hopefully not too far from you). Cycle Bike Shop, 1465 Michigan Ave (312) 987 1080.

I haven’t been in contact with them for a while, but I’m pretty sure it's the same owner. His name is Carmichael, and on a good day he can be very helpful. If he doesn’t have parts he may know where to get them or good substitutes. I’ll be interested in how you go for spares.
 

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