BB Help Please!

I'm looking at one of those new fangled sealed bottom brackets that I need to get out of a frame. I've got the spline tool and a big stilson! Which end do I attack first? The plastic (non drive) side or the metal (drive) side. Will one of the threads be handed?

Thanks!

assuming its a normal frame and not some johnie foreighner left side ( non drive side ) first but i dont normally take it out completely , just enough so its can come out with a few turns by hand later

its a righthand thread in the left side so itl undo anti clockwise

then the right hand side which is a lefthand thread thatl need to be undone clockwise

once thats out completely unscrew the left

an easy way to remember is that they tighten to the rear , loosen to the front

It's usually easier to remove the non-driveside first. That undoes in the normal direction (anti-clockwise as you are looking at it). The driveside undoes in a clockwise direction. The easiest way to remember is that to undo the cup turn the spanner towards the front wheel. Tightening it turns the spanner towards the back wheel.

xesh has written it in a less confuseling manner

hold the tool with your left hand and push it in to stop it slipping with your palm . i can normally get a few fingers around the downtube or chainstay which makes it easier

Thanks people! The drive side seems to be stuck good!! Going to use some penetrating oil sprayed in from the non-drive side.

I love the smell of GT85 in the lounge!

perry":1iony0fk said:

hold the tool with your left hand and push it in to stop it slipping with your palm.

Click to expand...

Even easier (at least on the driveside) is to use a bolt with the same thread,but longer, and a large washer. Then you can use both hands on the spanner.

Iwasgoodonce":1072boem said:

Thanks people! The drive side seems to be stuck good!! Going to use some penetrating oil sprayed in from the non-drive side.

I love the smell of GT85 in the lounge!

Click to expand...

The driveside is usually done up very tightly. Don't even think of using a spanner less than 12" (300mm) long to get the leverage. Sometimes I've had to use a long bar on the end of the spanner to add leverage. Other times even that wasn't enough and I then had to jump on the bar to get it to move (this is usually only necessary on seized BBs). :shock:

thats very true and i was about to suggest it after the mention that its stuck

mechanical advantage suggests you would put the spanner along the chainstay and with one hand on the stay and the other on the spanner pull them apart . but thatl depend on clearance ( dont punch yourself in the face and if you do make sure no one is around to see )

the other way would be to have it at a quater past 9 and push down but be ready for it to "crack " off otherwise you could be throwing your whole body weight at the floor and punching the ground isnt too fun

third way if there are wheels on the bike and its being realllly hard . put some boots on and gently step on the end of the spanner , but again be ready for it to crack

It's out! Who needs knuckles anyway?

Also it looks like it is 5mm too long for the cranks. 110 anyone?

Thanks for the rapid answers chaps!

cool

i always try to answer any tech questions i can as quickly as possible , most of the time people only ask when they are in the middle of something and get stuck so its always helpful getting a response without having to sit around for hours with your stuff all over the living room floor and a mrs home any time soon

with the bb out itl be a good chance to inspect and clean the inside of tubes as well as any rustproofing you might want to do . inspect and clean the threads and grease when the next bb goes in

also when its time to insert put the left in first a bit so its on the first few threads . it helps support the bulk of the right hand side and it can be a faff trying to get the threads lined up on the left if the right side is in