Retrobike Forum Index

It is currently Wed May 22, 2019 7:03 pm

* Login   * Register * Search  * FAQ

Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 13 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2
Author Message
 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 11:44 am 
Devout Dirtbag
User avatar

Joined: Sat Dec 22, 2012 7:49 pm
Posts: 105
Location: London UK
ishaw wrote:
My dremel has a grinding tool that would be perfect for removing the bit of metal preventing you from drilling. It's a conical shape. Maybe you have one?

I really.. really should have a dremmel type drill by now but i don't. But if i get you right then i don't think that bit would help much. If it's basically conical towards the tip it'll just keep spinning off the nipple left on the bolt. Getting the area flat enough for a good whack with the center punch as described by kingoffootball is prob my best bet for the moment as i don't have any welding gear. Its just such a small area to work in (5mm?) so if you're trying to not damage the frame you really only have a 2-3mm to work with.

 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 2:08 pm 
Old School Hero

Joined: Tue Jan 06, 2009 9:44 pm
Posts: 150
Location: bristol
If I had a similar problem , I would first try to flatten the remains of the bolt using a 3mm diameter diamond coated flat bottomed
burr in a dremel type tool , this is desirable but not essential

I would then clamp the frame in the vice on the bed of my small pillar drill , with the head of the drill 'inside' the frame . Most importantly
I would have fitted a ' Centre Drill Bit ' into the chuck first in order to align the damaged bolt correctly with the drill bit

Switch on drill , and feed drill bit into contact with damaged bolt , maintaining light pressure at high speed . The centre drill bit is so designed
that it cannot wander off to one side , and therefore does not even need a centre pop to help guide it

The drill bit will not be long enough to go all the way through the bolt , so you will need to finish the job with suitably sized
standard drills which should enable you to remove the remains of the old bolt without significant damage

Ideally you want to use the largest/strongest centre drill bit that you can , so I am guessing one with a 3mm dia tip to remove an M5 bolt ?

Hope this is of some help and that it has nothing to do with your previous enquiry re. Kirk frame problems ?!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 3:19 pm 
Retro Guru
User avatar

Joined: Fri Jan 13, 2012 2:28 am
Posts: 1272
Location: Near Gatwick
I use a fast air drill and start with the smallest drill I have.
You can usally move the drill around a bit and get the drill pretty central.
Once you have drilled with the small drill you can move the hole around by
punching the side of the hole away and drilling with a bigger drill.

I try and avoid stud extractors, more often than not they don't work and are easy to break.
Removing a broken stud extractor can be much harder than removing a sheared stud.
The best extractors are the fluted type but you wouldn't want to be hammering one in.

If you try an extractor be aware they break and don't put to much force on it, and when it doesn't do the job put a 5mm drill[core size or slightly larger] though the bolt and pick the remains of the thread out.

Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 13 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2

All times are UTC [ DST ]

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 20 guests

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  

About Us

Follow Retrobike

Other cool stuff

All content © 2005-2015 Retrobike unless otherwise stated.
Cookies Policy.
bikedeals - the best bike deals in one place
FatCOGS - Fat Chance Owner's Group

Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group