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 Post subject: Re: A Lucky Ti Find
PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2018 12:41 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Mon Feb 11, 2008 9:42 am
Posts: 2944
Yeah, that needs sorting. The slot a) looks much longer than any of the frames i've had and b) is far more cracked than the one i had warrantied. Also looks a right mess, looks like someone did it with a hacksaw!


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2018 12:46 pm 
Gold Trader
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Yup...the clamp and qr were fooked too like jeff capes had adjusted it! What might such a repair cost you think?


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 Post subject: Re: A Lucky Ti Find
PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2018 12:48 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 11, 2008 9:42 am
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No idea, you'll have to find someone who works with Ti.
It'll also need the shim popping out before you weld.......


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 Post subject: Re: A Lucky Ti Find
PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2018 12:50 pm 
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Location: above my station
I've seen people using the Gorilla one successfully (it clamps the seat tube as well as the seatpost) but I think the crack on yours is going to be too low down to get it to work:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gorilla-Double ... B015U8F7N6


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2018 3:19 pm 
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talk to the man Danson, If he can't do it himself I'm sure he will know someone who can


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2018 3:37 pm 
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
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This is the main reason I always use 400-410mm seat posts.... :facepalm:

Personally speaking, I'd take a cutting disc to that and shorten it enough that a seat clamp sat just above the weld, fit a long seat post and a seat clamp that covered/held the cracks. That way it would be the seat tube taking the load rather than all the leverage being concentrated up near the clamp area.

I doubt it would ever give you any cause for concern unless you were rolling off big drops... just my two penneth 8)


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2018 4:31 pm 
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Yeah, was going to suggest cutting it down too., Not sure if there will be enough tube left for a clamp though.


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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2018 4:54 pm 
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velofrog wrote:
This is the main reason I always use 400-410mm seat posts.... :facepalm:

Personally speaking, I'd take a cutting disc to that and shorten it enough that a seat clamp sat just above the weld, fit a long seat post and a seat clamp that covered/held the cracks. That way it would be the seat tube taking the load rather than all the leverage being concentrated up near the clamp area.

I doubt it would ever give you any cause for concern unless you were rolling off big drops... just my two penneth 8)


Yeah that was a though I also had however was soon dismissed as the crack is well below the top of the top tube so nowhere for the clamp to go. Hmmmm


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2018 9:45 pm 
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A small 2 or 3mm hole drilled at the end of each crack might prevent it going further.


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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2018 8:33 am 
Retro Guru

Joined: Mon Feb 11, 2008 9:42 am
Posts: 2944
velofrog wrote:
This is the main reason I always use 400-410mm seat posts.... :facepalm:
Won't work, the aluminium shim is only ~80-100mm long, so once you are past that, you've just got a load of useless post.........


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