A guarded view of Eddie Soens

Now, I was going to list all the kit that was on the bike when I got it (watch out - I probably still will!) but I thought I'd start with the bottombracket, and the shell. After all they amount to the same thing, and as you'll see, they literally are...


At some late stage in it's life a fairly, no, very crude repair has been done. The seller has no knowledge of it being done. And if I'd done it for her I wouldn't have drawn attention to it either, would you?

The net effect is that the fixed cup (a Bayliss Willey, probably the original from the 60s) has been incorporated into the shell. Adjustable cup is a Sugino and so is the axle probably.

What could I do? I enquired about fixing it with that nice Mr Yates; he'd have to see it before quoting but likely to be in excess of £150 if new shell was fitted - and I expect it would need this.

Can't afford that - likely as much as, or more than, the value of the finished bike. So I've done a fair bit of fettling to smooth things out and make a rough sort of groove to represent the interface of cup and shell. And sent it off to the powder coaters Hopefully the thickness of the finish will cover up most of the mess. (Not that I would fail to disclose this if I decide to sell on). I guess by telling you all about it I have sort of disclosed it already.

Does the phrase "caveat emptor" spring to mind?

Any chance of identifying the make of this rim? Scratchy old oval label that appears to have once been silver...



I need to know so I can thrill you all with a detailed listing of components Thanks in advance.

Back again with that promised list...

Frame: “Eddie Soens” number 874, late 1960s. Reynolds 531. Made in Liverpool

Fork: “Eddie Soens” Reynolds 531

Headset: NOS Tange Levin CDS
Stem: SR “Soul 60”. Engraved
Handlebar: GB Maes pattern
Bar Tape:  Black cloth

Brake Levers:  Weinmann – new Cane Creek hoods
Brake Calipers: Weinmann 730 sidepull

Shifters: Shimano “Unishift” period 1974-1977
Front Derailleur: Shimano 60 date AF (1976 June) 
Rear Derailleur: Shimano 600 DC 200 (1976))

Cassette: Shimano “UG” (Uniglide) 5 speed, teeth 14,16,18,21,24 date FH (1981 August) '
Chain:  Unknown
Cranks:Sugino  MAXY 171mm
Chainrings: Sugino MAXY double, both detachable; 52/42
Bottom Bracket: Fixed cup Bayliss Willey, adjustable cup and axle Sugino
Pedals: KYOKUTO “Top Run” plus Christophe toeclips

Rims: RIGIDA 700C
Hubs: Pelissier small flange 36/36
Hub Skewers: Pelissier P1001
Spokes: Rustless steel
Tyres: Michelin “World Tour” 700 x 28

Saddle: Brooks Professional
Seatpost: SR Laprade
Seatpost Binder: A2 stainless steel stud and nylock nut

Here's a little pic. I think most bits have cleaned up rather well given their previous state - much due to wear and tear rather than any neglect.

Still waiting on the frame and forks. The "Beasts from the East" have been a great get out for the powder coaters - hence 10 days overdue...

I would like to replace the 90s Shimano 105 rear mech for something a bit less modern. I fancy a Shimano 600EX (RD6207) short cage, being one I've used previously. Willing to swap. Anyone?

The 105 mech has been cleaned and is in, I would say, excellent condition. I believe it's not had much use since it was fitted.

Just bought a nice early Shimano 600 rear derailleur, a DC200 - good old Gumtree. It's more period correct and looks to be in good nick, although the black paint seems to be missing.

So the search is over, and now I guess I have a 105 (Feb )1996 for sale. Will pop it into the correct forum.

Frame and forks back from the powder coaters. As usual it's a super finish.



A sort of glossy primer grey, although it'll be getting sprayed white bands on head tube and seat tube, and with Steve's (hlloydcycles) fab decals which arrived today it should look the part.

I'm masking the frame myself - any ideas? The sprayer has given me some of the tape they normally use and recommends using a scalpel to shape around the lugs around the head tube. Seems sensible - does this compute?

All this excitement in one day, I need a lie down

The transformation wrought by Steve's (hlloydcycles) super decals. Excellent, authentic quality and easy to apply.

I may be edging closer to having to put the thing back together - but I love being surrounded by all those shiny components!

The painted panels look great. do you mind me asking how you prepped the powder coat for the white paint? I've got a Carlton frame which I was thinking of doing in more or less the same colour scheme and in more or less the same way - powder coat then paint on the panels myself.

Also, have you laquered over the decals?

It looks ace btw

Thank you Goldie, and it's now beginning to look more like a bike...

I'm a great believer in Powder Coat for frames - it's tough and shiny and probably more durable than many spray finishes. This is the third I've had done in the last year or two and I've been more than happy with all of them! Although I am sure there are many purists out there who would decry it's use and would claim it's not "pukka" - but it's usually half the price, or less, of a traditionally sprayed job.

Now, as to prep for panels etc (and my powder-coaters don't do "masking" for such things, other than carefuly masking chrome and threads), the sprayer I used (the first time I decided to have contrasting panels) didn't think there was an issue. I had planned to do the masking myself but he was used to masking intricate areas so I left him to it. I believe he gave the area to be sprayed a gentle rub down with the finest (480?) grit paper and just went for it. The key issue is degreasing, of course, and a bit of meths on a cloth is sufficient. And you'll need fairly thin and flexible masking tape if you are going DIY, I'd say leave it to the experts ( but the panels cost more than the whole frame powder coat!!!).

The white panels are fab and,as it turns out, are an exact match for the white in the transfers (decals, stickers call them what you like) that came from Steve @ hlloyd cycles. If you're serious about the look of your bike, use this man - his work is second to none.

For decal protection I use Windsor & Newton Acrylic varnish brush on (use a top quality artist brush to apply). It's clear, easy to use and there's a compatible remover too if you lard it on a bit thick...although meths works just as well.

Should I add the mudguards?

And why does the Brooks Pro saddle look so out of scale? Is it because the GB Maes bars have had a tad sawn off? Or because it's a little bike?