Neilll's Project No.4 Rocky Mountain Cirrus

Pickle":2u33tm9d said:
Slightly OT here Neil, but can you tell me how you stripped the paint?

I'm getting a steel GT frame off Longun and the paint is sh4gg3d, so need to strip her before deciding what to do.

Any advise?
Click to expand...

As Rob says....Nitromors, lots of it. Wear gloves cos it will burn your skin, although it's not as bad as some strippers I've used. I often work without gloves but it's not recommended. Ventilation is a good idea but not as much as if you are dipping ano bling in caustic (that REALLY shags your respiratory system up....)



Then follow with the 'Dr.S Polishing Formula'


As Take That put it so deftly- you will need a little bit of patience and an industrial sized tub of elbow grease.
You will have to flat it all off with 320 grade wet and dry paper with plenty of soapy water. Follow with 600 and then plenty of Autosol polish. I find old Terry towels are best for polishing ally. Do it in sections so you don't get sick of it- but do it one stage at a time.

Ps. Don't be macho, wear marigolds when you flat, fingers can get very sore and you will lose your finger prints in hours (could be handy)
Click to expand...
 
Pickle":28120fby said:
Cheers.

How do you apply it to the paint?
Click to expand...

I use an old paintbrush and an old toothbrush for the hard to reach places. thicker paint needs it leaving on longer, or multiple applications. Wash it off with a stiff brush and soapy water, i.e. car wash stuff (not Fairy Liquid cos it has salt residues in it), make sure the car wash stuff doesn't contain wax too :LOL:

Put it on thick but when you're done wash the frame thoroughly, even if you are only halfway thru stripping, never leave it to dry with Nitromors on it ideally.

Whatever you do DON'T get any in your eyes :shock: :shock:



Take care with it, it's full of Dichloromethane which is badass ;)
 
I was contemplating stripping and polishing my Supercaliber, but I'm too lazy! I've done a set of XC comp cranks - not to mirror finish but good enough for me and that was plenty hard enough!

Kudos to those of you who do this polishing (and builds back to catalogue correctness)!
 
This little update is for all the Neersayers, doubters, Fluffychicken, DrS, Mark etc who wanted 'proof' this thing existed/changed shape since I first started this thread :LOL: :LOL:

I may be VERY slow but here is the 'intent' ;)

Parts as follows:

Rims: Campag Thorr NOS
Seat: 'red logo' Flite NOS
Hubs: Bullseye NOS
Stem: Syncros Cattleprod NOS
Headset : original King MINTY
Seatpost: Syncros NOS
Forks: Syncros Powerlite MINTY
Bars: Syncros T78 MINTY
Bar Ends: Syncros SteerHorns NOS
Tyres (not pictured): Onza amberwall Porc NOS

Gruppo will probably be full M900 (excluding cranks!)

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neilll":1g08e20l said:
This little update is for all the Neersayers, doubters, Fluffychicken, DrS, Mark etc who wanted 'proof' this thing existed/changed shape since I first started this thread :LOL: :LOL:

I may be VERY slow but here is the 'intent' ;)

Parts as follows:

Rims: Campag Thorr NOS
Seat: 'red logo' Flite NOS
Hubs: Bullseye NOS
Stem: Syncros Cattleprod NOS
Headset : original King MINTY
Seatpost: Syncros NOS
Forks: Syncros Powerlite MINTY
Bars: Syncros T78 MINTY
Bar Ends: Syncros SteerHorns NOS
Tyres (not pictured): Onza amberwall Porc NOS

Gruppo will probably be full M900 (excluding cranks!)
Click to expand...



JUst clever paintshop if you ask me...
 
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