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The word flange always makes me giggle 
The stupid questions thread.
- Thread starter ultrazenith
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ultrazenith
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How dangerous is it to set a seat post 1 cm above its max mark?
ultrazenith":w5k2b2ia said:
It is not a good idea, but...
The manufacturer sets the limit line conservatively to protect the company from lawsuits, but it really depends on how long the post is and how much is still inside the seat tube. The longer the post the more potential for trouble as there will be significant leverage and very little to keep it in place. I would say that if you have say 3 to 4 cm below the clamp on a shorter post and 5 to 6 cm on a longer one it should be ok?
Cab
Retro Guru
Will original brake blocks damage my rims?
I was showing off my recently acquired Haro e-stay at the jumble, & pleased with how original the parts are. My mate pointed out the original brakes (work fine in the dry) will wear the almost unmarked rims out in no time & thinks I should get some modern blocks.
Is he right, if so which manufacturer makes something suitable? they're Exage canti's on the front & U on the rear, allen bolt front, nutted rear but looks as if allen type would work rear as well. Don't want to have to make do with some modern roadie stuff bodged in to fit!
I was showing off my recently acquired Haro e-stay at the jumble, & pleased with how original the parts are. My mate pointed out the original brakes (work fine in the dry) will wear the almost unmarked rims out in no time & thinks I should get some modern blocks.
Is he right, if so which manufacturer makes something suitable? they're Exage canti's on the front & U on the rear, allen bolt front, nutted rear but looks as if allen type would work rear as well. Don't want to have to make do with some modern roadie stuff bodged in to fit!
No way near, you either need to go past the bottom of the top tube/seat tube weld junction by several centimetres, or past the end of the reamed diameter of tube (so any "extra" tube is unsupported). So in the order of 8-10 cm insertion.lewisfoto":2cldo6fd said:
You can't (unfortunately) just rely on the seatpost manufacturers minimum insertion mark, the design of frame it's being fitted to is also important.
A good thing to look at is the length of a seatpost shim, that'll give you an idea of how much insertion you need.
IIRC the "proper" spec for an engineering fit like this would be something like 3 or 4*tube diameter.
ultrazenith
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Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread.
(i) Do Shimano still sell replacement freehubs for 90s STX 8 speed hubs?
(ii) I know it's not desirable, but is possible to cut down and then thread a steel steerer tube?
(i) Do Shimano still sell replacement freehubs for 90s STX 8 speed hubs?
(ii) I know it's not desirable, but is possible to cut down and then thread a steel steerer tube?
Probably easier to thread and then cut. It's easy to extend or clean up a thread (and the tools are cheap, just need a die of the correct size). But starting a new thread from scratch is a pain in the arris, easy to muck up and the tools can be more expensive (need one that will keep the die central and perfectly square, an off square headset will never adjust correctly)
(They probably sell one that's compatible, will just need to do some digging and maybe play around with spacers to get the DS bearings aligned.)
(They probably sell one that's compatible, will just need to do some digging and maybe play around with spacers to get the DS bearings aligned.)
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