Lightweight Wheels? - help please :)

wadsy

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Looking to get my hands on a light set of 'retro' wheels; early to mid 90's.

So, what would be the spec to look for?...ie...which hubs and which rims?...Hope, NukeProof, White Industires?

Cheers
 
How about some rather nice M900 hubs - laced to hardly worn at all Sun CR17A rims - with double-butted spokes?
 
campag. atek or Mavic M230
28 hole. Wheelsmith or DT/Ritchey thin bugger spokes
Hope where light. need the lightweight for the front though.

Alu nippled of course.
 
Depends on how light. I'd definitely go with a Hope front but probably Shmano rear as they are stronger and barely lighter. Having folded up a Mavic 230 (at 65kgs) I'd probably pick a 231, which is much tougher. But you may be less clumsy than me!
 
Mavic CrossMax
From memory were under 1500g

The front is 100g lighter than a Hope Ti with 231 rim.

Mavic 230 are best avoided! Everyone I've seen is split.
 
Rampage":3poer7pq said:
Mavic CrossMax
From memory were under 1500g

The front is 100g lighter than a Hope Ti with 231 rim.

Mavic 230 are best avoided! Everyone I've seen is split.

Pre 1995?
 
I'm still running an m230 on the rear. They are of course not as strong as m231 but then they are lighter. They're both quite poor rims but that mainly because of the funny angled small braking surface.

My lightest front wheel is my oldest.
A hope 'original' which became the lightweight but with chunkier flanges.
Wheelsmith DB spokes, assume normal 2/1.7 not lightweight 2/1.5 versions with their Alu nipples
Arays RM-395 Team. (Not the team-xc)
Much better rims than the Mavic.
32 holes.

Hits the scales at 660g. You can drop that a bit with 2/1.5 spokes if you want or 28 hole.
Would be 40g-80g more for a suspension style hub or shimano xtr/xt.

Rear, Ti-glides varied in weight, earlier are lighter on my scales, through the Years it seems, also not the lightest of hubs.
It's the 4 bearing races that are it limiting factor.
They're about the same as XTR M950.

Depends what you are looking for in the wheel.
Just rummage through the weight section and stick one to get her and then get DT Revs with Alu nipples, these where available in the early 90's... Just.

For the rear I would say sub 1000g and if you can hit 950g thats good.
 
you could strip the axle and use aluminium spacers, plus, if you thread each end of the axle you could use bolts instead of a QR.

Rotational mass is where its at - lighter rims/ spokes/ nipples/ tyres/ tubes make much more difference over hubs.
 
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