Stuck brake arm (pics up)

Tc

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got a stuck brake arm on a fork stud any ideas or fixes?

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Re: Stuck brake arm

Screwdriver between for tab and brake and some gentle leverage usually works.
 
Re: Stuck brake arm

The stud is off a pair of Judy's & it's come off with the brake arm and it just spins now
 
Re: Stuck brake arm

You could always put the stud back on by hand, enough thread to ensure you aren't going to strip it.

Another suggestion that worked for me on a stuck m950 bb, adapted to this application:

Partially screw in a brake bolt into the stud (use a long one), find somewhere that has a hole/gap wide enough for the boss to fit through, but narrow enough to support the brake arm.

Hit the bolt with a hammer (quick and hard-ish, don't ponce around with gentle taps unless you want to). This should free it up. For the cranks I used a socket the same diameter as the crank axle and it worked a treat.
 
Re: Stuck brake arm

Cheers Ian but I think I'm gonna have to get a pic up
 
Find a couple of nuts with the right thread, screw them on the back of the canti stud. Screw them securely against eachother (using 2 spanners) and they won't move anymore.
You can then put a spanner or a wrench on them (or mount them in a vice) to stop the canti stud from rotating while you unscrew the bolt on the other end of the brake booster.
 
Raging_Bulls":1lo7rk4y said:
Find a couple of nuts with the right thread, screw them on the back of the canti stud. Screw them securely against eachother (using 2 spanners) and they won't move anymore.
You can then put a spanner or a wrench on them (or mount them in a vice) to stop the canti stud from rotating while you unscrew the bolt on the other end of the brake booster.

What he said :cool:

I recently used this method to strip a ringle without any skewer damage :





WD :D
 
Given that that looks like a titanium stud (and should be). I'd just use a mole wrench if I had one or try through the various pliers to grab the unthreaded part. Unsightly marks are not going to be seen.
 
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