Peugeot Ultima 653 Question

Lovely bike, I really like these late 1980s Peugeots and would love to see Maca's 653 Athena actually wearing Athena...it's got sod all to do with me of course, I'm just a pedant!

Your 10 Speed idea will hit the snag that the rear drop out width will be too narrow amongst other buggeration factors making the whole job more of a faff than you anticipate.

On my same period Raleigh I have a range of freewheels that I select for different terrain - 13-23 for most of my rides, 14-26 for a slightly easier time and 15-28 for when it really gets steep. If you're using a 42 tooth chain ring up front you will also find it easier if you go for a 39 tooth perhaps? All jobs you can do for little money and keep it period correct, something that pleases the pedant in me! lol

Martin

I have exactly the same model, I think bought in 1988 that I still ride every week and love.

I looked at the option of adding STI shifting and a larger cassette a while back and concluded that whilst it's certainly possible, it's a fair amount of expense and work.

Instead, with a bit of research, I found that unlike Hyperglide sprockets which have specific ramps built into specific locations dependant on the next sprocket size, uniglide sprockets can be mixed and matched in any way you choose.

I therefore bought two additional and different uniglide cassettes (still available new now) with the result that I have almost every sprocket from 13 to 32 and can just slide on whichever combination I think I will need. So if I'm in the hills I might take 13,15,18,21,24,28,32 (despite what people say, a 6400 derailleur will take 32!), time trialling 13,14,15,16,18,21,23 etc.

It takes five minutes to completely alter your gearing and I like having the flexibility. You still have down tube shifters but I've never used anything else and don't mind.

Wow what a stunner!

Your freehub is hyperglide not uniglide although that's pretty much irrelevant as you can't slide a 10 speed cassette on a 7 speed body....

What you can do is get a 10 speed and remove one of the sprockets and use it as a 9 (you'll still need a 10 chain), or get a 9 speed and remove a sprocket and use it as an 8. Obviously you'll have to set your levers to friction!

I would have sold a kidney to own this back in the 80s :shock:

the "tricolor ultegra shimano 600" hubs (rear) came in:

FH6400->uniglide 126mm
FH6401->hyper-uniglide 126mm
FH6402->hyper-uniglide, 130mm, up to 10 spd.

as I recall if you'd be able to get your hands on some older sh freehub with 8-9-10 spd cassette body (ie. FH-1056, FH-A550, FH-A416) it shouldn't be hard to change the axle-freehub body.

probably some newer cheap hub can also be used as a donor.

the rear droupout distance of your frame shouldn't be an issue. Most of the frames dating from the mid eighties already had 130mm OLD.

ohh and the nice thing with the tricolor brakes is that there's single and dual pivot version as well. so you can make your bike fitted with dual pvot front-single rear setup. : )

How about that!? I didn't realise that the 600 Ultegra ever came in Uniglide only, live and learn. Thanks.

You're right though an 8 speed conversion via replacement body is straight forward enough but 7 speed wheels had 126mm dropouts almost exclusively, 8 speed+ are 130mm. Obviously the frame can be sprung but by using a 10 speed cassette with 1 sprocket missing, making it a 9 speed, you'll be able to retain the 7 speed hub body and the frame will not need to be sprung.

I thought most of the frames from the eighties had 130mm OLD. At least my Basso had. Almost full shimano 1050 groupset with some 6400 ultegra here-there, and when I removed the 126mm rear wheel the frame "sprung open" at the back. 130mm campy hubs just fit perfectly without forcing anything.

One of my friends used 7spd axle with 9-10 spd freehub body. He claimed that he removed spacers from the non-drive side, and the axle length was just enough to enable him to fit the wheel into the frame with the freehub body (126mm axle, 126mm OLD frame)

in this case, only new freehub body is needed, the axle can stay the same and there's only some hassling with the spacers Non-driveside. I guess.

http://forums.mtbr.com/wheels-tires/can ... -4595.html

Where can you get uniglide sprockets ?

Very nice bike btw .

Re:

Hello, me agaon

I put a 39T chain ring on, lot easier than changing the rear cog, its made it a bit easier up hills

Now i want to change my bottom bracket, still on the same one from 1989, what do i go for?

Is the old ultegra octalink? seems confusing.

I thought about one of these, but looks like the axle is missing, very confusing!!

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-ultegra ... t-cup-set/


Thanks

Re: Re:

Balb0wa":2yv9viz2 said:

Hello, me agaon

I put a 39T chain ring on, lot easier than changing the rear cog, its made it a bit easier up hills

Now i want to change my bottom bracket, still on the same one from 1989, what do i go for?

Is the old ultegra octalink? seems confusing.

I thought about one of these, but looks like the axle is missing, very confusing!!

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-ultegra ... t-cup-set/


Thanks

Click to expand...

ooouch, that's a hollowtech2 BB... the axle is with the cranks, the BB has the cups and bearings (campy even has the bearings in the cranks, and only has the cups in the BB..)

65 series is OCTALINK, 1997-2004, yours is 6400, which is square tapered.

Look for a standard square tapered BB for shimano with the proper axle length..

btw, anyone looking for uniglide sprockets.. here in hungary it's simple.. some retailer shops have loooads of them and even

http://retrobringa.hu stocks them or even cassettes for old sunrace hubs.. We luwthem. They can probably send to the UK as well (cost me 7 pounds to post ergopowers, so I guess a cassette would cost something like that to send..)