hs33 setup/bleeding

I have just fitted a rear magura hs33 raceline and the lever pulls nearly all way back to bars. Do they need a bleed and where to get them done in Bristol, don't want to buy the bleed kit @ £25

Thanks

simonlovell99":dku4krik said:

I have just fitted a rear magura hs33 raceline and the lever pulls nearly all way back to bars. Do they need a bleed and where to get them done in Bristol, don't want to buy the bleed kit @ £25

Thanks

Click to expand...

Hi mate,

Okies, having had several sets of Maggies, and currently running a set on my Cindercone the whole process for bleeding them is not that difficult. (Would cost you the same as a bleed kit if you paid for someone to do it) youtube is a great source of videos to keep things simple rather than trying to explain (Look out for the crazy trials bike dudes, who bleed and fill with Water!!! Apparently a common procedure in the trials world) Anyway, fluid i get mine from local Auto parts shop, its fraction of the price of Magura Blood but just as good, and according to the bottle is as used in Bentley cars.........Things to check, If yours have the on-the-fly red adjusters check the position of them, also silly question but you are setting them up with the wheel in place? also position of the shoes against the rim should be similar to conventional brake blocks. If you are still getting full lever movement to the bars then bleed is deffo on the cards. you can also download the Magura HS instruction manual which does have a wealth of info which can be applied to pretty much all mk's of HS brakes.

Persist and you will have some great Rim brakes which will stop you on a sixpence everytime

Do the pads touch the rim as soon as you start pulling the lever or is there simply too mch space between the pads and rim? In the former case you might have to look at bleeding indeed, but in the latter they just need to be set up properly.

1 ) Loosen the screws a bit so that the calipers can move around inside the mounting plates. No excessive play, just enough so the calipers can move
2 ) Put the pads against the rims, then tighten the bolts on one side of the bike.
3 ) Pull the lever a few mm back (Magura recommends 2mm, I suggest however much play you want), you'll notice that the caliper on the loose side slides outwards a mm or so.
4 ) Tighten the loose side, loosen the other one.
5 ) Pull the lever back a bit more so that the other caliper moves outward a bit as well
6 ) Tighten
Done

In step 2, you may want to put something thin between the rear of the pads and the rims to provide the right amount of toe. Otherwise they might squeal every time you brake.

Tacx Brake Tuner, perfect for getting distance and toe on your pads

Thanks for the replies, they seem a bit better. But lever still pulls back to far and I don't feel confident bleeding them

simonlovell99":2ixe0v0n said:

Thanks for the replies, they seem a bit better. But lever still pulls back to far and I don't feel confident bleeding them

Click to expand...

Have a look at this thread;

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=77729

May help you out, but also have a look on the Magura Community site, there are loads of hints and tips on all HS Rim Brakes 11's, 22's, 33's........

Also have a look at this;

http://digitalhippie.net/mountain-unicy ... gura-hs33/

I never purchased a bleed kit, just a large syringe from Boot's Chemist, and a length of Hose in this case i used some car washer hose.