Marin ti & Kona ti return for 07

jez-2-many-bikes":1tjfaj63 said:

Attitude problem methinks.

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attitude or altitude? I start really suffering over 11K ft. below that I'm fine.

not sure if u'll take this as a complement or insult jez?? (its meant as a complement!). some of the finest retro bike collectors barely ride & have the nicest collections

heres another example of retro over pricing!
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... %3AIT&rd=1

that is crazy money .

scant":28n84djr said:

yeh they'll always be minority sections IE s.spd, etc...

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No mate, s.spd'ers are all a bunch of nutters!

SS is not as hard as you think . I am more tired after a geared ride than a ss ride .

I've used full suspension since the first Cannondale Ravens were released. For all day riding or for out and out thrashing, they are difficult to beat. My current Klein Palomino is almost too quick for my abilities, but looks after me on long day rides. The P20 is more than capable for day rides or blasts round Glentress, etc, but not as comfortable or as usuable.
Singlespeeds are ideal for winter, especially night rides. A good work out in a sort space of time and not too bothered about cleaning the bike when i get back

cchris2lou":gakdd1mq said:

SS is not as hard as you think . I am more tired after a geared ride than a ss ride .

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I tried a s.spd ride in north wales once. was totally fecked in record time!

I rode fully rigid for years (orange c16). then about 3 years ago decided i ought to try these new fangled suspension forks. Trying to get 1" threaded forks proved tricky so i looked at a new bike. Eventually settled on a Cannondale Jekyll (4"of front and rear travel). 2 months later someone climbed in through my conservatory window and helped themselves! back to riding fully rigid while i waited for the insurance to pay up... Then i got a Fisher Cake 4DLX worst mistake ever IMHO 5" of travel both ends, long frame, high bottom bracket (high centre of gravity), several over bar dismounts and a wrecked knee later someone stole that too. Then i found out we'd been mis-sold the insurance and they weren't paying. Back to the fully rigid, found some forks on the bay and got out on my first experience of a decent steel hardtail. WOW!! what to do next.. several warnings about the state of the rust on the c16 i started looking for a better condition steel hardtail frame. Then out of the blue i spotted it. Ti hardtail frame for £200... OK its only a rock lobster, but hey its out of the same factory as everyone elses, same material and same builder, so why not.

2 months on its running 100mm forks and disks front and rear, but 8 speed trans with XT thumbies. Its got the ride quality of the steel hardtail but no rust problems, and its a real blast to ride. I think its cost me about £600 to get the ti hardtail on the road... and theres no pivot wear to worry about.

Something ringing out there Mike: "back to the hardtail..."!!!

Full sus was never meant to be for you

I think it comes down to want you want out of a ride. If you want to go fastest over a short time, or furthest over a long time, or if like me you just want to enjoy the challenge of the ride. Factor in how much you like maintenance and I think hardtails still have a viable place. That said I ride both a hardtail and a full sus and have fun on both. I take the hardtail when I want more of a challenge and the full sus when I just want to sit back and enjoy the ride.