wheelset with ATAK hubs, any good?
- Thread starter RockiMtn
- Start date
raidan73
Moderator
Archivist
Retrobike Rider
BoTM Triple Crown
BoTM Winner
Gold Trader
PoTM Winner
98+ BoTM Winner
Rocky Mountain Fan
Brodie Fan
- Feedback
- View
I had a quick Google and found these couple of posts from other forums
They were made in the US cnc hubs but they had a odd feature, they did not come with a freehub body. The rear came without a freehub body on it and you had to get a Shimano XT or XTR freehub body and install it yourself. So the rear was this weird hybrid of cnc hubshell with cartridge bearings and a Shimano freehub body with cup and cone bearings.
as pictured below (they're offered in 28, 32, 36 hole varieties, with the colors blue, green, purple, red, silver and black at random times, all being sold by good old Bennett Gibbs of eDiscountBikes), here's what you need to assemble them and the weight of what you end up with.
As sold, the front hub is 162gms, with a 16mm axle that steps down to 12mm at the SKF 6000-rs cartridge bearings and then down to 9mm for the dropouts. I've popped the axle on one of mine already and they're double rubber seal cartridge bearings. Plus there's the dust caps covering them.
The rear is supplied without a freehub body but it accepts just about any shimano 7 to 9 speed model (more on that in a below). I myself used a new STX-RC 8speed body because I had one available from a 36h hub I was likely never gonna use. I also substituted the supplied CrMo axle with a Titanium axle to bring the weight down for the finished hub. The hub doesn't include the 10mm freehub fixing bolt so you'll need that too (easiest method is to buy a complete shimano rear hub and strip it for the bolt, freehub body, and right side cones and bearings).
From the STX-RC hub I used I kept the right side cone, seals and bearings, but used the locknut that comes with the hub as its a 1mm smaller diameter than came with the shimano hub and slightly lighter as a result. To get the axle spacing perfect I used a pair of wheels manufacturing aluminum axle spacers (instead of the spacers supplied with the ATAK hub - which were 1mm aluminium ones and too thin) or with the shimano hub - which were steel ones that were too long), with a 3mm on the drive side and a 2.5mm on the non-drive side.
Total weight for rear hub as assembled was 325 grams, and the left side bearing is a SKF 6001-RS which is protected by the dust cap and an o-ring seal on the axle.
Price? Well, the hubs usually close on auctions from $19 to $35/set depending on the colour, hole pattern, and time of day the bidding ended. I've gotten three sets so far, 28H red, 28H purple (can't be colour picky when it comes to finding good 28H hubs), and 32H blue. A shimano rear hub like an alivio or deore 8speed can be had for about $30, and if you want a Ti rear axle, well, I sell them for $12.50 but
i've seen them sell on ebay for $10. Still, cheaper than a full XT set, lighter also, and stiffer front hub for suspension forks, nicer bearings, etc.
They were made in the US cnc hubs but they had a odd feature, they did not come with a freehub body. The rear came without a freehub body on it and you had to get a Shimano XT or XTR freehub body and install it yourself. So the rear was this weird hybrid of cnc hubshell with cartridge bearings and a Shimano freehub body with cup and cone bearings.
as pictured below (they're offered in 28, 32, 36 hole varieties, with the colors blue, green, purple, red, silver and black at random times, all being sold by good old Bennett Gibbs of eDiscountBikes), here's what you need to assemble them and the weight of what you end up with.
As sold, the front hub is 162gms, with a 16mm axle that steps down to 12mm at the SKF 6000-rs cartridge bearings and then down to 9mm for the dropouts. I've popped the axle on one of mine already and they're double rubber seal cartridge bearings. Plus there's the dust caps covering them.
The rear is supplied without a freehub body but it accepts just about any shimano 7 to 9 speed model (more on that in a below). I myself used a new STX-RC 8speed body because I had one available from a 36h hub I was likely never gonna use. I also substituted the supplied CrMo axle with a Titanium axle to bring the weight down for the finished hub. The hub doesn't include the 10mm freehub fixing bolt so you'll need that too (easiest method is to buy a complete shimano rear hub and strip it for the bolt, freehub body, and right side cones and bearings).
From the STX-RC hub I used I kept the right side cone, seals and bearings, but used the locknut that comes with the hub as its a 1mm smaller diameter than came with the shimano hub and slightly lighter as a result. To get the axle spacing perfect I used a pair of wheels manufacturing aluminum axle spacers (instead of the spacers supplied with the ATAK hub - which were 1mm aluminium ones and too thin) or with the shimano hub - which were steel ones that were too long), with a 3mm on the drive side and a 2.5mm on the non-drive side.
Total weight for rear hub as assembled was 325 grams, and the left side bearing is a SKF 6001-RS which is protected by the dust cap and an o-ring seal on the axle.
Price? Well, the hubs usually close on auctions from $19 to $35/set depending on the colour, hole pattern, and time of day the bidding ended. I've gotten three sets so far, 28H red, 28H purple (can't be colour picky when it comes to finding good 28H hubs), and 32H blue. A shimano rear hub like an alivio or deore 8speed can be had for about $30, and if you want a Ti rear axle, well, I sell them for $12.50 but
i've seen them sell on ebay for $10. Still, cheaper than a full XT set, lighter also, and stiffer front hub for suspension forks, nicer bearings, etc.
