Pace RC200 F6 : F618163

Jim, looks and good to me, nice to see you found a home for the FOX, I told you plush is the word.

Great stuff. :)
 
dbmtb":2kalrx2l said:
Wold Ranger":2kalrx2l said:
Whatever you do, DO NOT! use a shimmed seat post or use RC 38 forks (unless they are the Airforce short travel versions) both with split the frame, I have seen literally dozens of these frames wrecked by riders sticking Modern forks on them and splitting the head tube, top to bottom, they put far too much leverage on the head tube and same goes for the seat tube with a Shim. Use a proper 29.4 seatpost and put at lease 150mm in the tube, preferably more.

F6s were made to run with the original Proclass which had 90mm travel... I ran mine with an Airforce2 which only has 63mm travel and the handling greatly improved with an RC36 Evo III set to 80. So not sure why you draw this conclusion WR? Unless you are talking about 10mm RC38s?

Re. shims - you are just increasing the margin for error of bad tolerances. If you have a 27,2 seat-tube that actually measures 27.3 and a 25.0 seatpost that measures 24.9 and then add a shim which adds another tenth of a millimeter intolerance.... then it's not good. Most frames that break near the seatpost are do to these types of tolerance issues.

It's not simply the travel, but the ATC, which is much longer on the RC 38, I feel the Fox will do the same sooner or later, too much leverage by half.
 
Wold Ranger":1wxbbfqe said:
It's not simply the travel, but the ATC, which is much longer on the RC 38, I feel the Fox will do the same sooner or later, too much leverage by half.


Ahh...but at least the old girl will go out in a blaze of glory.... and possibly me too :shock: :LOL: still, what a way to go eh?!! :D
 
What are peoples thoughts on the dating of components? IE i have purchased some rather nice RC35MXCD as i always did like RC35, but the only RC200 i can see around ATM is an F6, would it be wrong to put RC35 on an F6 or should i wait for an F3 to pop up ?
 
Do whatever the hell you like, it's your bike! You don't see a whole lot of "period correct" components on my Pace :LOL:

If you like the RC35's then use them, remember that a lot of the RC200's have 1"1/8th headtubes, so make sure you get a matching steerer for whatever size headtube you end up with.

All I will say is that there are better (more modern) forks that will suit a Pace frame, such as the later RC200's (eg Pace RC36 or RC38 forks, or Even Rock Shox SID's etc).
My Pace is pretty much my main MTB so I wanted forks that worked a little better than the retro elastomer ones, for everyday use, but if your bike only gets used occasionally then RC35's might be acceptable to you.
 
Shazam!! weighed it and it comes in at 22.5lbs :shock: , I have some lighter tyres on the way which will probably drop near a pound off that weight as well :D

Other updates:

- Superstar disc pads, cheap and work very well!

- FSA Afterburner 2-ring chainset, silver, shiny, and I've really no need for a granny ring tbh.

- Pace RC31 forks, light, responsive, made to go with a Pace frame :D


I'm very happy with the bike at present, think I'll sell the Fox forks I used previousy and look for some Pace suspension forks instead, other than that this bike is ready to ride for many years to come :D
 
Holy weight loss Batman!! :shock:

Fitted some Kenda Klimax Lite 345g tyres, and the weight has dropped by..... a whole pound!

So now at 21.5lbs :D

The tyres are for summer/dry use only really, there's not enough tread to grip in any kind of mud.

Pretty happy with the way it is now, hard to see how I can shave much more weight off it without spending megabucks or sacrificing reliability.

WIll get some pics this weekend :)
 
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