Normal and E type bottom bracket difference help??
- Thread starter trxrincon
- Start date
- Feedback
- View
E Type leaves enough space for the E Type front mech bottom bracket fixing to go.
- Feedback
- View
I assume the cup is a bit longer, if you use it without the front mech you need a spacer. Never actually used one but it could be why the drive side cup end stop is much thicker on the normals than they used to be.
Modern setup just use spacers for all different setups.
'AFAIK if you use a normal bottom bracket it just moves all the axle 2 or 3 mm to the right and the other cup ends up a bit in the frame.
Modern setup just use spacers for all different setups.
'AFAIK if you use a normal bottom bracket it just moves all the axle 2 or 3 mm to the right and the other cup ends up a bit in the frame.
- Feedback
- View
What crank is it?
What length axle famed out assuming its a replacment?
What length axle famed out assuming its a replacment?
Chopper the ex Copper
Alpinestars Fan
I'm a growing fan of E type mechs and have used them on my 2 latest builds. For what it's worth, some observations...
1. Expensive XT mech looked nice, but cheapo Altus job actually came with a stiffer mounting plate and rices a better shift.
2. I've used a standard BB each time, but I've been careful to make sure that I've bought BBs with a good fat lip on the drive side. No problems.
3. Not that I've had any slippage problems, but be used a dribble of Loctite Blue on the mating faces.
Good luck.
1. Expensive XT mech looked nice, but cheapo Altus job actually came with a stiffer mounting plate and rices a better shift.
2. I've used a standard BB each time, but I've been careful to make sure that I've bought BBs with a good fat lip on the drive side. No problems.
3. Not that I've had any slippage problems, but be used a dribble of Loctite Blue on the mating faces.
Good luck.
I have an XT E type on my FSR, my BB is a hollowtech II type.
leaving a spacer off the drive side seems to work well enough with this setup.
for square taper I'd agree that a 73mm would probably be the best route as at worst you'll have a couple of mm extra thread on the non-drive side (where a 68mm might disappear inside and leave exposed threads on the BB shell to collect crap & corrode.
leaving a spacer off the drive side seems to work well enough with this setup.
for square taper I'd agree that a 73mm would probably be the best route as at worst you'll have a couple of mm extra thread on the non-drive side (where a 68mm might disappear inside and leave exposed threads on the BB shell to collect crap & corrode.
