Orbit Frontier - Wholesome English goodness

NeilM":3v5fokte said:
LBS should be able to run a tap through the BB, or you could get as much surface paint off as possible and then use old BB cups to clear the threads.

As for the bosses and stem. I'd be inclined to use emery cloth, as you can use it in fine strips to just work on the bosses. Look at how any of the frame builders smooth out fillet brazed joints and you will get the idea.

Yeah good point. It's just so annoying. For someone who builds at a snails pace, its not good news either!
 
NeilM":2siuvr7v said:
LBS should be able to run a tap through the BB, or you could get as much surface paint off as possible and then use old BB cups to clear the threads.

As for the bosses and stem. I'd be inclined to use emery cloth, as you can use it in fine strips to just work on the bosses. Look at how any of the frame builders smooth out fillet brazed joints and you will get the idea.

Couldn't agree more, that's top advice in my opinion.
 
coomber":3r6yufhx said:
Yeah good point. It's just so annoying. For someone who builds at a snails pace, its not good news either!

Nah it's all part and parcel of the build.

Overcoming the problems is half the fun.
 
andyz":3p4wdir5 said:
NeilM":3p4wdir5 said:
LBS should be able to run a tap through the BB, or you could get as much surface paint off as possible and then use old BB cups to clear the threads.

As for the bosses and stem. I'd be inclined to use emery cloth, as you can use it in fine strips to just work on the bosses. Look at how any of the frame builders smooth out fillet brazed joints and you will get the idea.

Couldn't agree more, that's top advice in my opinion.

I'll make a start tonight then!
NeilM":3p4wdir5 said:
coomber":3p4wdir5 said:
Yeah good point. It's just so annoying. For someone who builds at a snails pace, its not good news either!

Nah it's all part and parcel of the build.

Overcoming the problems is half the fun.

I'll have to decide at the end if that's right! But yeah, always teething problems.
 
If you have some old bb cups you could grind a couple of slots across them to help clean the paint out of the thread.

I'd still lean towards the Nitromors method on the brake bosses. Just cover everything that you don't want it getting on and just apply a small amount to the boss with a little brush (kid's painting brush size is perfect). Leave it on just long enough to soften the paint then scrape it off with a craft knife.

I'm picking up my frame frome the coaters tomorrow, I'd be happy enough if it only had the problems you've got TBH. I hope I'm not writing a post in my thread starting with "Powder Coat Woes" this time tomorrow evening.

I can't wait to see a shot of the whole frame and forks BTW, the finish looks lovely and that's a nice colour too :cool: .
 
Yeah i've calmed down a bit. Going to give it a go how it is. Its a lovely frame but until its built up its not even like I know how it rides to see if it warrants more attention!

Will put the money saved on a re-re-spray on the cranks and wheels I need.

Frame looks great ignoring the paint issues. From two or three foot its amazing. Am putting off showing more until resolved as dont want to dampen the effect when its all on show. Its vain I know!

Looking forward to seeing yours tomorrow.
 
This is pretty much par for the course with cheap powder coaters, I'm not surprised by their reaction.

I had masked myself the brake bosses and everywhere I didn't want powder, so the guy on the shop floor could see and hopefully re-mask as required before applying powder

I had to run a tap through pretty much every thread on my frame not only for excess powder but the tiny bits of grit from blasting. I got lucky with BB threads, they had masked them well with big washers, however it took a while to get bits of grit out.

I had to sand inside the seattube where bits of powder had got, push cloths through the seattube and shake the frame at all angles to get the blasting grit out.

You will probably find just sanding the stem a little will get it to fit - you might have to lever open the bar clamp with a screwdriver a little to get bars in unless you remove the powder inside.

Looking forward to seeing this!
 
Just measured and dropouts are 125mm.

Kind of wish I had cold set them before painting. Oh well.
 
Deary me losing all motivation on this...

After the shocking paint job, give it to the local bike shop who clean and ream it nicely. Tried to cold set it today. Didn't budge. Having a 126m spacing is a pain in the arse especially for a cheap build...



On top of this I have worries on the braze on the headset lug. Is this OK?

 
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