Conversion from 130mm to 135mm

T

tigern

Retrobike Rider
PoTM Winner
I thought i read something a while ago about axles to converse a 130mm hub to a 135mm. I seem to remember there was also a link from a shop who sold them, but i can't find it anymore :cry:

Or, does anyone knows if it's possible to change a Campagnolo 130mm hub to fit in a 135mm frame?
 
I can't see why it wouldn't be possible myself (limited knowledge of campy gear!) - I recall doing something similar a few years ago.

All you really need is a new axle with the same threads as your current one, a pair of 2.5mm thick washers/spacers (or one 5mm thick but that would mean redishing the wheel) and a longer QR skewer.

You may be able to get away with the current axle if there's enough sticking out either end to take the spacers.

or look here:

http://wheelsmfg.com/products/axles-con ... axles.html
 
I'm also interested on converting an Euclid hub to 135mm to fit my Klein Attitude.
It's a 130mm threaded hub (Italian) so I'm unsure whether to go ahead due to the lack of reasonable priced threaded Campag cassettes available.

The existing axle is broken already so I got it for a bargain price.

I recall a thread where someone converted to 135mm using a cro-mo axle from SJS cycles.

If the hub is unlaced can I just put a 2.5mm spacer on either side. Or is there more to it?

Cheers
 
...dont forget that your wheel will undoubtably need redishing when you go from 130 to 135 or vice versa. The drive side spacing is the same to accommodate the block so adding/removing spacers on the non drive will push the rim out of centre.
 
dazzawazza":2xp2z1yy said:
Does this mean that on an unbuilt hub all that is needed is a new axle and an extra 5mm spacer for the non drive side?
Click to expand...

No... 2.5mm either side to keep it centred.
 
Funny I just popped in to MTB forum for advice on V brakes and saw this thread. I was in this exact situation a few weeks ago.

I just bought a new touring frame which after buying I found out has 135mm dropouts. I simply bought a new longer 9mm hollow axle, 2x 2.5mm spacers and put the new axle through. It's a very simple conversion if your hub has a traditional cone & bearing system with a threaded axle. A longer skewer might not be needed, in my case the old fulcrum road one was long enough.

I got one like this, I seem to remember '145mm hollow axle': http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Weldtite- ... 6676378615

If you want a solid 10mm one I've got a new unused 170mm one here I don't need, you can have it for the postage cost if you want.
 
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I'd get the hub first and then check what axle is in there. Assuming it is threaded then you should be able to put a new one through easily, before buying anything check if you need 10 or 9.5mm though as you'll run in to trouble if you get the wrong one.
 
PopsTrippin":1s12w4ey said:
dazzawazza":1s12w4ey said:
Does this mean that on an unbuilt hub all that is needed is a new axle and an extra 5mm spacer for the non drive side?
Click to expand...

No... 2.5mm either side to keep it centred.
Click to expand...

I disagree. Put the space on the non-drive side, the dish in the wheel is then minimised.
 
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