How important is ti prep?

ah yes, but by the time I get to australia, the $22 for the finish line stuff will be about the same... (or $7 for the little packet things)

well... went on a mission to get something today ended up with this:
https://www.blackwoods.com.au/part/0275 ... -300gm-can

hopefully it fits the bill...
went to a few car parts places, nothing. I could order in the finish line stuff or get it from CRC but would prefer to do it today...

That should be fine. I haven't tried Ti Prep to compare, but I don't think it's much different and I believe they're both copper-based.

I'm always surprised how many people use plain grease for bolts and other static parts. Grease should only be used to lubricate moving parts. Copperslip should be used for static joins, because grease doesn't really have much in the way of anti-sieze properties.

Pierre":1smbau27 said:

A big tub of copper slip will last for decades. I've got a 500g tin of Comma Copper Ease, the size of a syrup tin, that I'm not even sure they make any more, it's easily about 15 years old and is still about a quarter full. It's good stuff and pretty much essential if you're putting titanium bits together, both with other titanium bits and with non-titanium. The price sticker has long since worn off but I think it cost about a fiver from a local car spares shop.

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I can beat that i had 2 (alas only now one!) small tins given to my by My grandfather in 1993 the remaining one is still half full and now getting on for 55 plus years old!

People always confuse galling with galvanic corrosion, which is when two (untreated) dissimilar metals mated together react. The farther apart they are in nobility (anode vs. cathode), the faster they will corrode (electric discharge from positive to negative material). Adding a electrolyte (like water) speeds up the process. Check out the chart below. You'll notice that Ti (and slightly less so steel) is at the far end of the nobility scale from aluminum. That's why they corrode and stick together so quickly. You should always Use some form of prep between the two metals. It forms a barried between the materials and slows the process (plus, it helps keep out the electrolytes like water by forming a seal).

PSA: Most commercial Ti prep compounds contain crushed glass. You should avoid getting it on yourself, and wash it off immediately if you do. The glass particles will go right into your skin, taking any chemicals mixed in with the prep compound along with it.

yep, well time to do the dishes then strip down the frame and slather on some of this goop

funny, all the threads i've seen have said go to a car parts store and get some for next to nothing, as the biek store stuff will is well overpriced... finishline stuff is $AU22 here (possible a bit more once arrived. The stuff I got, as I could get it right now at the parts store...$40.

T'boo Ted":2fw2i74s said:

The stuff I got, as I could get it right now at the parts store...$40.

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FORTY DOLLARS???? Do the employees at the cash registers wear balaclavas? A 113g tub of Permatex anti seize is $10 at the not-so-cheap automotive chain here. Their better quality copper slip is a whopping $16. Knock a buck off those prices for the AUS equivalent $.

yeah no one over here has realised that the AU dollar is now more than the US dollar (it used to be 54 cents a couple of years ago).
There another thread in general where a guy was looking at an RX8 for 3500 pounds, same car here is like $20K.
A running shoe that in the US is $140, UK 100, here is $280...

\anyway, got some now, have to get to it.

and i'm sure that soon someone from over here will send me a link of the stuff for like $5...

That's a very useful chart, FMJ - thanks for that!

Should I put anti seize paste on my Chris king headset when fitting it into a titanium frame? Also what about seat posts, should I put a bit on that as well?