what spoke length - front XTR m900 with Mavic M231?
- Thread starter RockiMtn
- Start date
Thanks, I think I'll be purchasing 269mm in length.
I think this is would also be okay for repairing a few spokes on old rear XT 7-spd hub w/ Wolber 18 rim. I'm in the process of replacing the corroded/cracked nipples on it and I had to cut two spokes as I couldn't get two of the nipples off.
From the Lenni site, I selected XT-II/DX rear and Wolber AT18 with 32 hole 3-cross and I'm getting lengths of 268.3 mm and 267.1 mm.
I took off two spokes, one from each side and they look to be the same lengths. How does one measure spokes? The bend begins past 265mm, and the centre of the head reaches around 269-270mm.
Lastly, I have a bag of spare DT Swiss nipples. How do I know what gauge spokes they are for? Is 14 gauge / 2.0mm the thickest spoke size? I've threaded them on to 14 gauge / 2.0mm spokes fine.
I think this is would also be okay for repairing a few spokes on old rear XT 7-spd hub w/ Wolber 18 rim. I'm in the process of replacing the corroded/cracked nipples on it and I had to cut two spokes as I couldn't get two of the nipples off.
From the Lenni site, I selected XT-II/DX rear and Wolber AT18 with 32 hole 3-cross and I'm getting lengths of 268.3 mm and 267.1 mm.
I took off two spokes, one from each side and they look to be the same lengths. How does one measure spokes? The bend begins past 265mm, and the centre of the head reaches around 269-270mm.
Lastly, I have a bag of spare DT Swiss nipples. How do I know what gauge spokes they are for? Is 14 gauge / 2.0mm the thickest spoke size? I've threaded them on to 14 gauge / 2.0mm spokes fine.
another question… how do i tell if the nipples i have are brass or aluminum? the bag i have, some are kind of a matte finish, while others are more shiny. they look identical otherwise so wondering if it's just variation from batches or if I indeed have two different sets of nipples in the bag.
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Personally I would go 268 as they are easier to get hold of cheap over hear. but it all depends on where you are aiming the spokes to end.
the book I pointed to says 268 worked fine. I do know some spoke tables say 269 for the m231 with normal 38pcd hubs.
2.3 2.0 and 1.8 are normal spoke sizes. 2.0 for your standard nice mtb. 1.8 for a few race bike, ignore 2.3 unless a bso mtb.
Ali nipples are my lighter and noticable in the hand.
the book I pointed to says 268 worked fine. I do know some spoke tables say 269 for the m231 with normal 38pcd hubs.
2.3 2.0 and 1.8 are normal spoke sizes. 2.0 for your standard nice mtb. 1.8 for a few race bike, ignore 2.3 unless a bso mtb.
Ali nipples are my lighter and noticable in the hand.
the nipples were all in one bag, i separated them by eye as I noticed a difference in the finish. the bag was given to me, i didn't purchase them. i tried to put one nipple on my scale but it was too light to register. 
i'll probably snag a box of DT Swiss Competition 2.0/1.8 in 269mm off ebay.
i'll probably snag a box of DT Swiss Competition 2.0/1.8 in 269mm off ebay.
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the other part, spokes are "normally" measured from the end of the spoke to the inside of the shoulder (DT).
Of course they could also be measured to the centre of the head point, this probably accounts for you see in older spoke tables <?>
But as long as the spoke is in the nipple to near the nipple seat bed (so probably no thread showing inside the wheel) and not fully wound in (you cannot tension it any more), then all will work fine.
Hence the reason you may find real wheels have the same spoke lengths, they'll just end at different points (~2mm difference) in the nipple, you should see that visible at ever other spoke.
PM me your email address
EDIT see DT spokes here
http://www.dtswiss.com/Resources/Suppor ... pokes-2013
Here's nipple talk (as it has the nice picture of DT's )
http://forums.mtbr.com/wheels-tires/nip ... 16327.html
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You must remember I'm just a home enthusiast, not a paid professional
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Of course they could also be measured to the centre of the head point, this probably accounts for you see in older spoke tables <?>
But as long as the spoke is in the nipple to near the nipple seat bed (so probably no thread showing inside the wheel) and not fully wound in (you cannot tension it any more), then all will work fine.
Hence the reason you may find real wheels have the same spoke lengths, they'll just end at different points (~2mm difference) in the nipple, you should see that visible at ever other spoke.
PM me your email address
EDIT see DT spokes here
http://www.dtswiss.com/Resources/Suppor ... pokes-2013
Here's nipple talk (as it has the nice picture of DT's )
http://forums.mtbr.com/wheels-tires/nip ... 16327.html
---
You must remember I'm just a home enthusiast, not a paid professional
---
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