Square taper, grease or not!!!!

Half the people say "grease", the other half say "dry".

Guess there's only one thing to do. I'm going to put grease on one side only. That way at least one side is done right.
 
Raging_Bulls":1gcw1cu0 said:
Half the people say "grease", the other half say "dry".

Guess there's only one thing to do. I'm going to put grease on one side only. That way at least one side is done right.


yeah, but which side do you put the grease on??! :LOL:
 
Ding Ding Ding Round 2 - "Greasing the Tapirs".... It's hard to do. Catching them is one thing. Slathering them up with 90 weight gearlube just plain pisses them off, and they bite!

In trying to put some cold facts before this distinguished assembly, I conducted a raft of measurement tests (with more to come) using the following:

Syntace torque wrench. Fairly decent.
Starrett dial caliper. Likewise pretty good.
2 different NOS Shimano BB-UN54 (BC1.37x24). Please note that the Shimano driveside taper is 1.233mm shorter than non-DS. Spare parts for a couple of my bikes.
16 NOS crank bolts. Spares.
1 NOS Shimano M739 crankset (spider (chainset removed) and left crank) recently purchased from another member herein.
Finish Line Teflon Grease. Stuff I use.
Park PPL-2 Polylube 1000 Grease. Suff I use.
Loctite red. Stuff I use.
Loctite blue. Suff I use.

Dry taper, dry thread, drive side torque to spec, mark spider location on spindle
Dry taper, new bolt, Loctited red thread, driveside torque to spec, marked...
Dry taper, new bolt, Loctited blue thread, driveside torque to spec, marked...
Dry taper, new bolt, Polylube greased thread, driveside torque to spec, marked...

Repeat 4 measurementes but on non-drive side taper. Repeat both set of measurements with greased taper using Finish Line Teflon grease

Anyone care to predict what the results were on this series measurements, before I post them? One observation - dry, greased, or AS, the crank seated deeper on the non-DS than on the DS in ALL of the measurements thus far. 2nd observation, AS'ed tapers (LocTite) versus dry taper were almost no different. In fact, AS taper blue had less suckon distance on the DS and non DS. Interesting and unexpected.

Still to come - same measurements using greased taper with Park Polylube, then repeat with AS taper using LocTite. Note however at that point I'll be out of NOS crank bolts and will have to re-use them. Don't know if/how "stretched" bolts will alter the measurements. This series of measurements is based on stuff that I have readily available.

Lots of fun! NOT! Disclaimer. If the components or types of AS and grease aren't to your liking. you are most welcome to do your own...
 
jimo746":1m7av4nc said:
Raging_Bulls":1m7av4nc said:
Half the people say "grease", the other half say "dry".

Guess there's only one thing to do. I'm going to put grease on one side only. That way at least one side is done right.


yeah, but which side do you put the grease on??! :LOL:
surely two sides of the square on each side, everyone's happy that way!
 
gdb2b":3i4zmt7y said:
Ding Ding Ding Round 2 - "Greasing the Tapirs".... It's hard to do. Catching them is one thing. Slathering them up with 90 weight gearlube just plain pisses them off, and they bite!

In trying to put some cold facts before this distinguished assembly, I conducted a raft of measurement tests (with more to come)...

:cool: Sterling effort but...

...I can guarantee you that someone will come on and say 'Yeah, but that doesn't prove anything!'
 
We_are_Stevo":3srqz8e5 said:
gdb2b":3srqz8e5 said:
Ding Ding Ding Round 2 - "Greasing the Tapirs".... It's hard to do. Catching them is one thing. Slathering them up with 90 weight gearlube just plain pisses them off, and they bite!

In trying to put some cold facts before this distinguished assembly, I conducted a raft of measurement tests (with more to come)...

:cool: Sterling effort but...

...I can guarantee you that someone will come on and say 'Yeah, but that doesn't prove anything!'
Mainly that it doesn't , other than where each sits on this setup. But it's nice to see.

The reason why it doesn't show anything is
a) What is shimano's recommendation.
b) Does it sit within the chain line specification. I.e +-1mm from its target I can check but I think that is what it used to be, it is not a tight tolerance iirc.
c) which leaves the better crank taper and bottom bracket surface.
d) was everything cleaned with Propanone to remove the anti-stuff.
e) what will each be like in a year in a dry shed... a salt winter commute and muddy rides.
f) many more but it's getting silly
g) LGF dibbed this page? or is that something else.

...
We do need pictures for proof and a nice graph
...
 
Back
Top