Square taper, grease or not!!!!

When you've quite finished flogging that particular dead horse I know a butcher who will take it off your hands for a nod and a wink... :LOL:
 
We_are_Stevo":3fcbubz9 said:
When you've quite finished flogging that particular dead horse I know a butcher who will take it off your hands for a nod and a wink... :LOL:

And sell them as beef?
 
I've always applied a light smear of grease (most of which is pushed off by fitting the crank anyway) just to prevent any chance of seizure.

Interestingly I also always grease the crank bolt threads too to allow for accurate torque up with no potential for premature binding.

Never had a problem with either.
 
Grease, no (although it can be argued that grease is better than nothing at all). Anti-sieze compound, yes. Is it required/needed? No. Good idea/good preventative practice? Yes. Is it a big deal on BB taper fittings for most folks? No. Members herein typically keep their kit/running gear tidy - cranks get removed frequently enough to where corrosion isn't much of an issue - for most.

What is the physics behind the issue? Galvonic reaction between metals., especially dissimilar metals such as forged steel and aluminum alloy. All metal-to-metal parts contact, especially those which are torqued or pressure fitted and which are subject to moisture/humidity exposure benefit from a light application of anti-sieze compound.

Have a read of the some of the threads about using caustic soda to remove stuck seatposts. A wee bit of AS compound (or lube) at assembly would have helped.

If you don't know when or if these cranks will be off again, do yourself or the next owner a favor, AS them.
 
Dry cranks end up creaking more often than not. Thin film of grease on the spindle, clinically clean crank arm taper, smear of grease on the threads and under the cap of the bolts.
 
Sadly this debate will never be resolved and we will continue to see threads appearing as to;

"Can you help with my....(Insert one of below)....."

Stuck Crank
Stuck Seatpost
Stuck BB
Stuck Quill Stem

All related to lack of proper maint, corrosion, cold welding, years of abuse, or lack of grease or lube!!!!
 
As an aside, I also have my doubts about the overtightening issue as an argument 'against...'

...every crank I have ever had has been a snug fit against the end of the spindle when I've removed the bolts prior to dismantling. How then is it possible to 'force them on so far' as to cause them to split (something else I have never come across for that matter...)?
 
We_are_Stevo":2z3kbrh4 said:
As an aside, I also have my doubts about the overtightening issue as an argument 'against...'

...every crank I have ever had has been a snug fit against the end of the spindle when I've removed the bolts prior to dismantling. How then is it possible to 'force them on so far' as to cause them to split (something else I have never come across for that matter...)?
Are you saying you've bottomed out the tapers on the bolts?

On every crank you've ever had
 
Jussa":286cdvlf said:
Sadly this debate will never be resolved and we will continue to see threads appearing as to;

"Can you help with my....(Insert one of below)....."

Stuck Crank
Stuck Sestpost
Stuck BB
Stuck Quill Stem

All related to lack of proper maint, corrosion, cold welding, years of abuse, or lack of grease or lube!!!!
One of these things is not like the other 3
 

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