Removing Old 3 Speed Freewheel

Hello,

I've got a bike with an old 3 speed freewheel that I need to remove to replace
some broken spokes.
The freewheel has rubbish indents for the removal tool, a bit like what you get on cheap 'n' nasty single speed freewheels. However, it is usable and original to the bike so I'd prefer not to remove it destructively if possible.

Does anyone have a technique for removing these types of freewheels? Trying to knock it loose with a hammer and punch had no effect at all...

Johnny

Pictures of your freewheel will be most helpful to help you/us decide how to get it off safely

Johnsqual":a8wn7h7j said:

Trying to knock it loose with a hammer and punch had no effect at all...

Johnny

Click to expand...

Hey, do you mean the deep slots or the finer ones on the locknut? IIRC the locknuts have reverse threads. You will be able to remove it this way but it may be tricky to rebuild it

I too would like to know how to do this. Last time I had to remove the lockring/bearing cover plate or whatever its called carefully catching the numerous tiny bearings and then place a couple of bolts or nuts between the inner hub teeth and outer sprocket teeth to jam the entire thing together when unscrewing sprocket using a chain whip. Then rebuilt with fine grease, though not fine enough as it does not freewheel as easily as before :roll:

Any idea what grease is recommended for freewheel bearings ?

velomaniac":3lz65y1i said:

I too would like to know how to do this. Last time I had to remove the lockring/bearing cover plate or whatever its called carefully catching the numerous tiny bearings and then place a couple of bolts or nuts between the inner hub teeth and outer sprocket teeth to jam the entire thing together when unscrewing sprocket using a chain whip. Then rebuilt with fine grease, though not fine enough as it does not freewheel as easily as before :roll:

Any idea what grease is recommended for freewheel bearings ?

Click to expand...

oil!?

Oil does tend to leak out rather quickly, surely they use a fine grease, prepared to be wrong though as the internal working of a freewheel were only revealed to me that one time I went inside

If you can get the lockring off, removing the pawls and springs usually gives you two 'flats' to clamp in a vice. Or even leave the springs/pawls there if they are sufficiently 'recessed' to avoid damage. May be ultimately less damaging than removing by temporarily 'fixing' the outer sprocket to the inner part threaded on the hub. Depends on the freewheel. Get some plus-gas on the stuck thread.

Lubrication is not my strong point..Grease? Oil? Groil? Heavy oil? light grease? :? Yes they usually come greased, whatever that means, and it often seems to end up constricting the free movement of the pawls. Make an assessment of the strength of the springs and lubricate accordingly. Stong springs=much 'click' and pawl wear, but not so free freewheeling..use grease. Weak springs=not so much 'click' and pawl wear, but free freewheeling.. use oil.

Thanks for the replies so far. I was hoping to get the freewheel I have off without dismantling it.

My problem is the indents for the freewheel remover tool - they are like the ones in the picture: too shallow, thin and far apart for a normal two prong freewheel tool.

It seems the only way to remove a f/w like this is to dismantle it - unless anyone has an alternative.

Cheers,
Johnny

Surely you just need the right remover? BITD we had a number of "two pronged" removers of varying designs.......

Shaun

Pardon my complete ignorance, but why would a frewheel remover of the correct type not fit into the two slots visible in the pic?
If you have one or are able to adjust one - with a file (i had to do this recently) to fit and put the QR back in tightly then unscrew the frewheel a little - release the QR a little, unsrew the freewheel a little ... and so on until it is off.

Have i missed something?

Don't tell me again tonight ... i'll get my coat .............