Shimergo Query

I've read a few things about the joys of mixing Campag with Shimano, and was wondering if someone could enlighten me for a possible upgrade for one of my rides.
I'm currently running 9 speed Campag Record ergos (the first model carbon lever ones), with a 9 speed Chorus rear mech, Dura Ace 7400 front mech, Record square taper cranks with Highpath rings, a BBB 9 speed Campag bottom bracket and YBAN 9 speed chain, on Novatec hubs.
I've got a Shimano fit freehub and would rather run a HG50 9 speed cassette, purely because they are cheaper (with a wider range of ratios) and seem that bit easier to lay hands on than Campag equivalents. I have heard that Shimano blocks can run smoothly enough with Campag shifters and mechs - does anyone know just how feasible it is?
Any advice, very gratefully received.

Look on the ctc site. Easiest is to use a Shimano rear mech with hubbub mod IIRC

Hi everyone thanks for the sharing
i am glad to meet you in the forum

Have a look on the CTC website in the Technical section. There's lots of discussions about Shimergo there. I thought the idea was early 9-speed Campag shifters operating 8 speed Shimano rear mechs?

i believe the recipie is.......
post 2000 Campag 9 sp ergos
pre 2000 Campag 9sp mech
shimano 9 sp cassette

http://www.highpath.net/highpath/cycles/info/rear.html

After thinking it over...

I've decided to give it a go..

Rear Derailleur: 8 speed shimano 600 tricolor ultegra, currently shifting with a 6 speed casette and with shimano 105 6 spd index shifters.

Rear hub: FH-1051 shimano 105, currently running with 6 speed casette but I believe it can adopt 7 spds as well, only uniglide type casettes are a bit hard to find (esp. if you want it to be 11-26 or something like that)

and the campagnolo part either can be Rgo brake shift leverz pre-1999, 8 or 9 speed. I believe the 8 speed should work better, esp. with 7 spd.

The only issue is the casette spacing, which is I believe 5.5 mm-s instead of 5... but with 7 spd, it'd be corrected, that'd have exactly 5mm spacing.. then the cable movement, the campashifter would pull more cable than the required, but fortunately with the trad. hubbub method I should be able to slightly decrease the cable travel with each click.

Then bang, the system should work, not to mention that you can always adjust the end-limit screws on the rear derailleur to avoid "shifting into the spokes"... too bad the chain on my bike is so short that I could never shift above the 3rd ring