ProFlex 856 input encouraged!

just to wet your apitite on the polishing heres a 955 i polished and parts sourced for a local rider. :D hope these pics do it justice ;)
 

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Good job the sun wasn't out for those pics! :cool:

Love how the ano bits are now so much more emphasised.

Awful pic of the grey XTR against the translucent blue, didn't have time to spin it around out of silhouette, sorry! Think it could work well...
20121201_113147.jpg


Also please note the presence of a mech hanger, thanks very much! :D
 
Found some random silver wheels knocking about and getting seriously drawn to XT and cantis again...
20121201_204029.jpg
 
Have some cantis on their way and an offer on some nice levers (that'll want a polish ;) )...

I've pulled the shock out for a look at the bushes and to swap the conical seat back in in place of the temporary (but excellent fit!) headset top cap and I have a feeling there's no oil in it :cry: not sure yet if these are serviceable, need to spend some time on the Proflex forums!

It's also now very wobbly as the shock sits flush against the seatstay but there's a big powder run there, so I'll have to rub that back flat.

Also, is there a (non brutal) way to stop the shaft rotating as you tighten/loosen the bolt that goes through the seatstay into the shock?
 
elPedro666":1mny441w said:
Have some cantis on their way and an offer on some nice levers (that'll want a polish ;) )...

I've pulled the shock out for a look at the bushes and to swap the conical seat back in in place of the temporary (but excellent fit!) headset top cap and I have a feeling there's no oil in it :cry: not sure yet if these are serviceable, need to spend some time on the Proflex forums!

It's also now very wobbly as the shock sits flush against the seatstay but there's a big powder run there, so I'll have to rub that back flat.

Also, is there a (non brutal) way to stop the shaft rotating as you tighten/loosen the bolt that goes through the seatstay into the shock?

pete, what i did for tightning the bolt was..threadlock the bugger and wind it in nice and firm but not fully pinched(yet). attach other end of shock to it's home and fully tighten.
now, hold the stay with one hand on each side and 'work' it into line. on intervals, lower toward the eyelets they marry with and you will know when you are good because the stay will pop into line with eyelets just right, or not. keep at it til its just right. a balance of alighnment but not under any pressure or twist. sounds a pain but less than a minute sort of task. then, get your bolts in. threadlock the others for good measure and go round them all, 4 iirc.
lastly, not leastly ;) nip-up the stay to lower shock bolt before putting your wheel back in.
also, worth noting....any installation of front mech is, in some cases better done before rear end assembly. unless to have stubby allen keys.
maybe it was the mech i ran but, i had to drop the rear out to access cable pinch bolt properly.

cheers.
 
Cheers for that Mark, will be useful :D

The one that's still causing trouble is the one that passes through the top of the seatstays and screws into the end of the damper rod itself - not sure how to stop the damper rod just rotating :? Stilsons seem a tad brutal! :eek:
 
yeah, that's the one i refer to in the first paragraph or so, and last one to nip up when wheel is out.

5mm iirc. install the shock and stay as per instructions above, then, with a rag around that brass collar(end of shock)? then pump pliers or suchlike to hold it then wind the bolt well in. threadlock should do the rest.

i must say, it's worth keeping an eye on that said bolt after a 'fierce' ride as they can work loose(r).

good luck buddy.
 
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