trouble opening up campy hub

GazK

Retro Guru
I recently bought an old pair of track wheels on campy record hubs. The front one is fine but the rear is a bit graunchy / clicky. I want to open it up to check where the problem is, so I put my cone spanners on it. Trouble is, even with one spanner locked into my workmate, and a set of molegrips attached to the other, after a dosing of WD40, I cant budge the locknut. Its got to the point where if I put any more torque on I'm going to kill one of the spanners. What should I do?
 
Midlife":3rzj487l said:
Try the other side?

Shaun

Not sure that would help? I'm torquing the locknuts away from each other regardless of which way up the wheel is, aren't I?
 
What I meant was if you are trying to loosen the drive side........try loosening the non-drive side.

Shaun
 
Midlife":2rlg0jij said:
What I meant was if you are trying to loosen the drive side........try loosening the non-drive side.

Shaun

No I understand what you meant. But since I have one spanner on the drive side locknut and the other spanner on the non-drive side locknut, and I'm trying to rotate one relative to the other, surely what should happen is that whichever locknut has the least stiction would release first? So I'm not sure your suggestion will change anything.
 
Ah, I see now..... I thought you had the spanners on one side, sorry.

If the nuts are corroded on then it's time to think about heat or splitting one of the locknuts which usually means a new axle. Or looking at ways of applying more torque.

Shaun
 
What you need is both spanners on the same side, placed so that you can squeeze them towards each other to undo. If they don't move lean one on the workmate and gently tap the other with a soft hammer.
 
I assumed the OP had done that.............which was why I mentioned trying the other side.

Shaun
 
Aah yes, having reread your posts I understand what I was doing wrong. I was applying spanners to the two outermost nuts on the whole axle, meaning most of the applied torque was going into twisting up the axle.

What I *should* have been doing was applying them to two *adjacent* locknuts on either the drive or non-drive side. I have now done this, and a few helping taps from a hammer freed it no problem. Hub has now been stripped, degreased, regreased and reassembled. Bearing faces were like new. No more graunches!

Thanks very much for the assistance and apologies for not getting it sooner.
 
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